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The one with the bullet connection is the coolant temp sender sticking out horizontal, the bigger one facing down is the switch for the non existent air con but what's with the 3rd one, next to the aircon and looks the same with 2 male 4.8mm spade connectors on it. Just wondering.

Lucas certainly did go metric very early! It's M4. I never even looked at metric due to it's age, every day a school day, many thanks.

I have both, I will pop up the garage now!

Early Series 2. There are 3 rods that screw into the rear of the fuel/temp gauge mounting. All of mine are corroded away, they all had at some time a brass threaded thumb screw that held the individual gauge pods into the face of the main body. I have stripped the old gauge down for maintenance...

I looked at changing the rake but it's too much trouble. I had a job years back welding shafts and I still have my 32 amp welding kit. I have the accredited welding skills of an apprenticed fitter on the job for over 42 years now so I can trust my welding thanks. I will try and remember to post...

Hadn't thought of that but it really is too close to driver. I will do the half way thing, it has to be cut as I can't get an S2 one and this S3 took some finding and at a premium cost too! I nw have a spare S2 steering wheel as the spline and shaft are different sizes. I threw the old shaft out.

Hey guys, my S2 from 1958, been around the block a few times now, had many different engines and it's latest reincarnation after many years stood still required basically everything new or 2nd hand. Steering box, either series 1 late or series 2. Couldn't get either so managed to source one from...

My maxisys MS906 was purchased for my garage as my old maxidas ran out of license. Then I managed to buy a P38 and start getting some issues. I did not purchase the maxisys for the P38. That would have been a nanocom but I can't justify one just for my own motor. I don't have Range rovers...

I'm getting the P38 in the unit before the weekend, I will see how much it can do and report back.

My maxisys scanner does more than thew Britpart one I purchased, it will be on an auction site soon then.

I removed the BECM and sent it to martyuk now it's back and all working. It was locked out and no way in except for the fix. First class service, paperwork shows the eka I had was wrong. It's the luck that runs my life. Another P38 saved.

My 1958 SII handles and feels so much better on Rocky mountains all round. It has a 300tdi in front making it heavy but no power steering. Just get great exercise every time I drive it.

Just back in from testing again, all wiring to doors is good, swapped the fuse relay board back to original, key code lockout at 1st attempt again, no flashes, beeps etc

It's me, I have the need to try everything possible known about the motor before I give up. I take into account things like 'what if this is the very first time that my particular sequence of events occurs' the fact that no lights or beeps or flashes happen. I'm putting the old box in and...

brianp38dse The part numbers on the fuse box are the same so from that I assume it is identical. I may put the old fuse box back and see if that makes any difference, it may have been sold because of that fault, who knows. Grrrrrr I did the door check micro switch thing from the door actuator...

Cost me 1200 3 months approx ago, just had new battery, fuse relay box, Audi heater matrix rebuild, air con gassed up, great engine pulls the caravan well so why cant I just have a key and turn it like my old series.

There are no flashes of any light anywhere on the dash or on any of the external lights, there are no noises, bleeps, absolutely nothing when I try the EKA process. I can open the drivers door with the key, that is all I have. When I try the EKA I get key code locked after only 1 attempt whether...

I followed the instructions to the letter. In fact over 25 times I have now attempted to enter the EKA code. I have not a clue if this code is correct. I know that I can follow instruction to the letter. This method DOES NOT WORK on my P38 gentlemen. I heard somewhere of a sync method by...

DanClarke that is the plan, car worth next to nothing but great engine so I want to keep on towing, when I can get it running again.

Anyone in or near to Coventry with a Nanocom? This motor is really stuck now. There are no flashes, noises, indications at all when I try the EKA. Lock out message gone and just engine immobilised message on again.