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Replaced clutch assembly, master cylinder and slave cylinder. The newish (6 months old) slave cylinder was found to be jammed solid, a bit more bleeding and away we go, hopefully

Clutch is slipping again after a mile or two of driving, having replaced clutch plate and no sign of oil leaking in bellhousing, somewhat perplexed at what might be causing it. Are there any other adjustments I should be making?

We have an MOT pass. Sorted the handbrake as per Landrover Series Workshop Manual. Overhauled and adjusted brakes including new master cyclinder. Bearing on starter motor went and damaged insides. Bought a reconditioned one on ebay from an auto electric firm in Rotherham. A quality rebuild I...

What is our favourite company doing.... Land Rover DC100 Sport - New Land Rover Defender Sport - Photos - Frankfurt Motor Show 2011 - MSN Cars UK

10k boost sounds a good prospect, positive review on diflock, the other mechanics we are attending to. Its the emissions factor which is going to be difficult to overcome. Would I spray it into the air filter on 2.25 petrol

Suddenly hit with these MOT failures, yet last year nothing and only done 700 miles since, rather disappointing and frustrating to say the least. Has the tester been over zealous? You have no appeal. Any pointers about the following are much appreciated. 1 Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide...

Replaced clutch plate last weekend, floor out again and all, runs sweetly again with no slipage

Replaced clutch plate last week to cure slip, check rear crank case oil seal not leaking which might lead to slipage, floor out etc as above posts then ease back gearbox 5 inches and job done, allow a day and it will take two, good luck, clutch plate was £35 from Dunsfold

Head gasket replaced, blown in two places, rear crank oil seal replaced, running sweetly

Went gearbox out route, struggled to remove 35-year-old bolts etc but eventually all out, clutch, flywheel cleaned up and overhauled, slave cylinder replaced. Rear crank seal replaced and now all back together and on the road again

Having replaced the head gasket (blown in two places) and all upper gaskets to cure various leaks, and oil change to boot the engine is running sweetly. Unfortunately oil is now leaking from flywheel drain hole and clutch slipping really badly. Presumably the crankcase rear oil seal has gone and...

Finally got round to replacing head gasket and all upper gaskets, hard work but engine running sweetly now. Head gasket blown in two places and all mayo removed and everything cleaned up

None of the specialists would insure my son at a sensible (and affordable) price until aged over 23/25 or similar, you could take out a policy for £3k or more but not worth it, just daylight robbery

We have a 1976 2.25 petrol, I could not get any insurance for under £2.5k for my son, but now he is 19, we have £1,100 tf&t from Aviva, in his name and starting with zero no claims discount, if no claims it will drop towards £600 in two years time (also includes me as named driver) be patient

Looks like the engine is going to get a thorough clean up and overhaul to tease out a few more mpg

15 would be cause for great celebrations

At the moment its usually short trips at the moment, not idea I know, coasting downhill helps a lot

Having reached the dizzy heights of 12.9 mpg from 2.25 petrol 1976 88, and with the rocketing cost of petrol, wondering if anyone has any tips on getting more miles per gallon. Intend to keep the petrol engine to preserve originality.

Thanks for your comments, it's petrol, and does low mileage. Replaced coolant and now topped up so will be monitoring levels closely. Probably a good idea to change all the gaskets as appears oil weeping from rocker cover. Complete gasket set for a tenner from gaskets direct seems good deal

Planning to replace head gasket over Christmas holiday, lot of creamy white stuff in breather etc but not losing that much water. Wondering what is better – copper or fibre gasket material? Appreciate any thoughts.