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I guess diesel being thicker will work a petrol pump harder than it's expecting, but it seems to work fine at present.

Thanks, yes, the lift pump is working, although it's not really a lift pump: in its former life it was a 3.9 v8, and still has the in-tank pump for that. At the mo, the in-tank pump is connected and runs, although when I got the car it was disconnected (and the car ran fine), and that's how its...

Hi all - after more or less a year of good running, I have a bit of a problem with my engine that I hope you can give me a mixture of abuse and excellent advice on :) There's quite a long back story which I'll skip over for now and get to the point: It's an '92 RRC with M51 engine transplanted...

you'll also find relevant info on some BMW forums e.g. : chip oil in an e36? - Page 2

I'm with you on the foreign aid and welfare system points, but I think the immigrants are soft targets. There may be immigrants taking dodgy cash jobs, but I only see 'em working hard & paying their taxes in poorly paid industries like public transport & the NHS.

The pump is in 3 sections: the very top section can be taken off and the seal replaced in-situ without too much worry. the mid section you have to worry about refitting it in exactly the same position (this is why you want to mark the position of the bolts) and also you have to ensure the spigot...

could be FIP seals. I think you'll have to take the manifold off to tell.

May be you've just got an airlock after changing the thermostat then -- I believe they're notoriously tricky to get all the air out. I think if you search on here, you'll find a few techniques to get the air out.

why did you change the thermostat? was the old one missing?

do you have a pic of the spark plug? does 'dashed' mean impact damage? It's hard to imagine a small piece of metal getting into the cylinder, bashing around for a while and then getting out without damaging valves at least. but then again, it does look nicely shot peened. :)

Does the 400 for fip refurb include removal and refit? If yes, go for it. Your risks are then no worse than any other 10+ year old 'everything works' at purchase p38.

haven't used it, but oyltite stik sounds like it could be handy here: OYLTITE STIK + INSTRUCTIONS-Frost Marine: Boat Restoration Techniques

Mike, you may be right, but it will depend what sort of load is on that spring. It may not be easy to take it off without it pinging out. If I could get another £500 quid off from the seller, personally I'd take the risk: what's the worst can happen? you find the bits on the floor, invest a...

Hi Mike, looking at the pictures of the pump assembly it looks likely there's springs and stuff that will shoot out expensively if you carelessly take that cover off. I'd start with trying to nip the bolts up carefully to see if that stops it, if not, unless someone else on here has experience...

Update to my earlier post on this... It did leak again, even with proper new gaskets. Twice actually. So, in the end, I made a paper gasket myself (with 0.6mm gasket paper from ebay). I don't know what was wrong - perhaps the top half was warped from over tightening, or I had the wrong...

If you do have a leaky FIP, and you're brave, you can change the FIP gasket yourself - the trick is to ensure the top part goes back on in exactly the same place, otherwise you may have to have it professionally calibrated. What I did on mine is lightly oiled the bolt heads, and built filler...

Sounds more like the autobox sticking - has it had an oil change recently?

Leaks from the FIP are also common. Other sources of poor economy are: a stuck (open) thermostat, broken or disconnected temp sender on head (or some of the hotstart fix systems too I think)

You have to drop the tank, or cut a hole in the floor. there's a great thread with instructions by Canyon on here.

Better change your sig then :)