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Yes indeed i should have, but, it's been long day and the guinness is flowing:D

Right, so answer is i don't need an MOT certif to get insurance, and i did ask the dumbest question on earth:rolleyes: Cheers guys:D

Thank you very much, do i win a prize :doh::D

Just reminded me of yet another job needs doing:rolleyes:

Ok, may sound like a stupid question but, this wil be the first MOT my landy will have gone to since 2007, and i'm wondering, Do i have to insure it first to drive there, or do i insure after i get the MOT certif (Assuming it passes:rolleyes:) Can't remember if i need the MOT to insure it...

Looks really smart there. I'll be spraying mines in the summer time, to much rain in Kernow at the min;) Got a wee compressor which will probably do the trick, but spraying outside so the weather will have to be spot on, and will probably take ages to do. I sprayed one of my old VW's...

Had a similar problem with mines recently, basically traced it back to the headlights/indicator connections at the front. I also cleaned up every earth in her which probebly helped as well. What about doing a continuity test with a multi-meter to find out which wire may be at fault?

I would think the above, preload or lack off will shag bearings very quickly. Greased up?

I've finshed me welding and fitted new hinge bolts to both me front doors. Sprayed the inside of bulkhead with waste oil. Very pleased me :D Soon be time for an MOT:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Cheers for the replys guys, heat shrink and soldering iron it is then. I'll be able to wrap some tape along the finshed repairs and make it look nice again, rather than having all those crimp blocks hanging out of it:rolleyes:

Hopefully shouldn't be any flexing to the loom under there

Ok, So for some reason the main loom of my 90 was cut near the rear cross member, probably to do the cross member in the first place. Now, while wiring up my rear lights etc after i removed the tub for welding, the lights and indicators started playing up big time. I've traced the faults...

I've just finished putting my hard top back on again and really is easy to do as mentioned. Get the parts, couple of new seals and bolt her down, easy peesie:D I had to re-adjust my doors but i think that was down to me removing the rear tub as well

Finally got everything alligned and sorted. Roof on, sides, doors everything!! Had to get some new screws and captive nuts for my hinges, drilled out the old and sprayed waist oil into the bulkhead. New screws and captive nuts in and the doors are perfect again. Next, finish some wiring...

What about the windscreen and doors? Everything seems to have fallen back slightly cause the doors are nowhere near closing. There is a bit of give when i push the windscreen forward with my foot but it does seem it needs to go forward a bit more to line up again.

cheers for all the help guys, managed to get it in and all the bolts tightened. Put the roof and sides panels on in one lump and now my doors won't shut:eek: Bulk head and windscreen must have hinged back ever so slightly when the roof came off. Any ideas about getting this sorted and is...

My thoughts as well and i'll be able to get a new seal in place while i'm at it. Holy cow, that means my welding is finished!! 5 days non-stop and my hands are tanned;)

didn't replace the cross member but it was a tug to get it out in the first place, still had the factory seals on it. Thinking, now that i'm warm and had a cup a tea, taking the seat box out will help me loads

Finished the welding to the rear chassis today and painted the lot in black satin hammerite. When we went to put the rear tub back on again we couldn't get it to line up and slot down properly against the face of the seatbox and the mounting brackets on the chassis. The drivers side went in...