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Disconnecting it caused the engine to stall or run with irregular rpm during idle. Probably something else wrong then. Is there a way to rule out a injector that's leaking fuel into the cylinder?

I should expect the engine to run worse when the MAF functions correctly and I unplug it?

How can I check that / rule that out?

our p38a a problem, rough idle, rough on load on petrol. On LPG it's also rough on idle, but during load it's better. This is a Bosch type engine Took out the spark plugs; cylinder #3 is way too black, and cylinder #5 looks brand-new. Both are sparking OK. Already replaced HT leads and coils...

Yes, I replaced: - friction plate - pressure plate - dual mass flywheel - clutch release bearing

Engine runs smoothly. Is it possible that it has something to do with master cylinder to pedal adjustment? My feeling is that I somehow disengage the clutch too much, because the rattling only starts when the pedal is fully depressed.

I doubt that, because as I said, a new flywheel has been fitted, and the symptom before and after is the same

I'm trying to diagnose a clutch problem on a Td5 Defender, haven't been able to find a likely cause online. Symptoms: Clutch pedal makes a rattling sound when clutch is fully depressed and the engine is revved a bit, even when stationary. Problem occurs when accelerating and shifting up...

It started after driving through some heavy showers, went away over night. I don't think it's *just* an earth problem though, because there was enough juice in it to run the fuel pump and wipers etc through the brake lights. IE there has to be some sort of power supply through the brakelight...

Thanks for that suggestion. I checked there and everything looks fine. The problem is now gone by the way, magically solved itself. I think I should be checking all places that have permanent power, and are somehow close to the brake light circuitry. The only place I can think of right now is...

An auto spark?

I did some testing that revealed that the brake light switch is working properly: cables disconnected: brake light on, ignition off cables connected: brake light on, ignition on. Problem remains that the brake light is always on, and the brake switch controls ignition. I'm not quite...

My D90 Td5 has brake lights stuck on since my last drive. They remain on even when switching the ignition off. When I step on the brake pedal with the keys out of the ignition it starts glowing the glow plugs. I removed the battery leads for now to avoid bigger problems, but does anyone have...

Ah I thought you meant the engine was fubar :) Current plan is to leave the heads on for now, and replace camshaft, tappets and rockers

250k km.. that's 170k miles (iirc). Should not be fubar I think? At least it doesn't drive like it is. It's just a noisy when the engine gets warm

Looking at some exhaust manifold and coolant leakage problems first, when that's solved I'll start her up and record the sound, maybe that helps. It's definately half engine speed, so it has to be something to do with the valve train. Some more background, the engine's a 4.6 V8 and has done...

Any more ideas on how to diagnose this? How can I tell noisy tappet apart from other problems?

so.. replace followers (and probably the cam too while at it)? does it make sense that it only starts tapping when the engine warms up?

Well the white stuff is in the exhaust, so no ali there, but it's a sign coolant is leaking?

I also have a LR V8 that starts tapping when it's hot. Which of these causes happen only when the engine is hot? I know slipped liner is one of them.. Also, I took the exhaust manifold of, and 2 ports are white inside instead of black. Any ideas?