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well if I do, its not the problem. As I said, the failure of the car to start is 100% correlated with zero pump noise, from the back.. So, which is the pump that makes the noise? the in tank, or the wheel arch? I am coming to the conclusion it is the in-tank bastard. Now there may be...

BMW engine, registered June 2003..? Couldn't see any pump inside the wheel arch tho. Is it hidden?

My first post clearly stated 'in tank pump' Give me credit for having checked...where it was. All I want to know is where the feed for that comes from. I know that if it gets bashed, it starts eventually. But is it reparable or is it a straight swapout. Does it have an internal relay for...

If it pinks everywhere from cold on new plugs its prolly simply got too much compression. Maybe the 2.25 head is the cause. Other thought was the carb, but you say that's new..could be worth cleaning in in case there's a blocked jet somewhere. Might be worth a CO2 test..that often tells you...

I had serious engine vibration on a new Td5 defender. About 70mph,. It gradually got better until was almost normal after 12k miles. I ran it to 55k and sold it. But if yours is bad at idle look for broken engine mount. No idea on stripped bolt, and this is wrong forum anyway ;)

turbo on the way out. Or a turbo hose gone. Check for hissing noise on overrun, find it and seal it.

You do know that in cold weather, you should wait for the gloplug light to go out (several seconds) before cranking the thing? Otherwise it will pump a lot of fuel in, not ignite it, and leave you with a nasty cloud of smelly diesel smoke. Oh, and, as I discovered, a leaky turbo hose also makes...

I had a hissing noise on a TD5. Got worse and smoked, power was way off..it was a perished turbo hose, Cheap as chips to fix. BUT it never stopped it starting. Is this a Diesel? Generally if they have fuel and the gloplugs work, they run. See my thread on fuel pumps for discussions...

Hmm if its sparking, then that tends to mean that the crank sensor is OK.. Definitely worth hooking up an ECU fault code thingie..thats generally cheap and may show up something.. Is there a pattern to failure to start.. will it start when hot, but not cold, or vice versa? Will it start when...

No, when its working, that's exactly what happens, when it doesn't work, I just turn the key to get the idiot lights, there is a big relay that goes clunk somewhere up the dashboard/firewall area, but NO PUMP running in the tank. It's running now, so fuses and realys must be at least partially...

Mostly when I use this software on other sites, forum tools and search this forum does something..not here.. any reason why? Firefox 3, Mac osX

Err. Hmm. This may or may not be relevant. Was it well and truly warmed up? Has it been using a lot of petrol? i had similar on a peugout some years back. Turned out to be utterly failed water temperature sensor. So engine was on 'full choke' the whole time. If it is this, once left...

Freelander has conventional handbrake. Mine also sticks: being an auto we don't use the handbrake for that reason! Wet drums will rust and stick overnight. Wait till its a clutch on a the Commer camper you haven't started all winter.. Umm. yes, start in second gear, hare off down farm track...

as long as it works she will love it. Its when it doesn't...

Oh well. here we go again. TD4 once again failed to start..usual symptoms. no whirring from the in-tank fuel pump under the rear seats. Eventually banging the cover, and the rear doors and waiting a bit resulted in the correct whirr and a functional car.. Now..what are my options here? A new...

well, so far blown turbo hose, window winder mechanism shredded itself, interior lights dont work from switch, and fuel pump sometimes doesn't. But its fairty old so not too unhappy.