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Do you mean working from inside the car, reaching between the back of the door and the door-pillar with a right-angle screwdriver of some sort. I think the flange on the inside prevents reaching that way - I had a look to see if I could Dremel off the loop on the striker plate and it didn't...

The fault first manifested itself as an inability to unlock the door electronically. It would lock with the rest of the doors when locking with the fob, or by turning the drivers door key, or by pressing the console switch. It would not unlock by any of these methods, but could be unlocked and...

Since my lock makes a nice "clunk" when I press the lock or unlock buttons, I suspect its not a failure of the control but rather a mechanical failure in the lock. Worth a try anyway, though since it won't cost anything.

Only £39.99 on Ebay, but that's not really the point in my case. I'm told its an MOT fail, as its a legal requirement to be able to exit via any of the passenger doors so I need to get it fixed one way or another. Some things to try among the suggestions, thanks and keep them coming please...

He he ... fingers crossed. By the way, further exploration shows that the lock and the motor are all one integral unit, and pulling on the various wires and links doesn't make it open. May have to destroy the lock in some what (but how, without wrecking the door?) Tony S

Hi, My first post here. We have a 2001 Freelander TD4, and the passenger's side rear door can no longer be opened either with the outside or inside handle. Pressing the remote control to lock or unlock, I get a clonk from the lock mechanism. I have all the internal trim off, but I can't work...