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Thanks. I'll have a good look once I have removed the scuttle plastic cover.

Going through the scuttle similar to what is shown here.

So its correct to say that a correctly functioning scuttle should stop water ingress into the cabin via bulkhead? THis is assuming there are no roof/windshield leaks. If so I am thinking my first step should be refurbing the scuttle area with tigerseal.

Are you referring to this area? Is there a hole behind this seam what leaks? Are you suggesting renewing/resealing this seam?

The scuttle area is rust free and drain hole clear. Would the windscreen heater cable gland/grommet be a leak path?

Am I right in thinking this panel gap should be sealed off?

I had a close look at the scuttle/wing/bulkhead area. Is this hole here supposed to be clear??

Thanks for the helpful replies. The more I look at it, the more I think water is entering at the buklhead. It is only the right side footwell that is wet. This corresponds with the loom hole on the right side. Another question: Is it not true that water is supposed to not actually reach this...

I found this thread: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/water-leak-sorry-but-please-help.385126/ It had this photo of the bulkhead hole where the loom passes through. Meego, is this what you are referring to?

I plan to do some work to the right side wheel arch area anyways as there is rot on the arches behind the plastic guards. Do you have any photos of the work you did? Are there any others here on this forum who have repaired leaky bulkheads and can share their experience?

I see. Reaching in it does feel a bit damp and crusty under the servo. Presumably this area can be accessed and treated with the servo removed?

Can you help me understand where this joint is? Should I remove the wheel arch liners to see this spot?

THe water seems to be clear and uncolored.

I checked my D2 yesterday having not used the car for a few months and noticed the driver footwell carpet was wet. I checked the windscreen sealant bead with a torch and inspection mirror and the seal is intact all round. I went through a lot of pain getting national windscreens to install the...

The A pillar trims are purely cosmetic and do not provide any sealing.

I have now finally a windscreen fitted with no gaps, leaks or holes. Hallelujah! To overcome the insufficient depth of seating along the top of the glass they first pre heated the top rubber strip with a heat lamp to soften it. Then they installed the glass with ratchet straps and suction cups...

Did any of you guys have fitters strap down the top of the screen or somehow apply additional pressure to seat the seal properly? The guys I had clearly never did this. I am pretty sure all of the D2 screens they fitted were not sealed along to the top edge.

I had a cracked windscreen replaced by National windscreens....twice and the problem is still there! There are gaps between the applied PU sealant bead and glass along the top edge. It seems to stem from the D2 screen's built in rubber shield/seal along the top edge. It prevents the screen...

I just had a windscreen replaced and I used national windscreen. they left visable gaps int he sealant around the top corners so I called them back to do it again. THe same people came out and did basically the same thing until I had to step in with a ratchet strap to apploy more pressure to the...

I had a look at the rave manual. THe screws are pretty inaccessible. I think I'll have a go with compressed air without removing. I can actually see the fan with the steering column covers removed.