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In which case I would be even more glad that I didn't spend £40k+ on a new one in 2024. In 26yrs time I'll be 94 so probly a fair comment from that perspective. Any 94yr old drivers on here...? :vb-confused2: :vb-sleeping: :vb-smoke: :vb-wave: :vb-wavey: :mexicanwave: OP -sorry to...

OK so... £40,000 would keep my D2 (cost £2k) in tip-top condition for the next 26 years... and the last 9 of those would be free of road tax :D

£60K + for a new one, would keep my D2 in tip-top condition for the next 40 years...

If it was a Defender TD5, it might be £4k+ without even looking at it. But as it's a Disco TD5 & with your description it might be only scrap value unless you can justify why it should be more. I sometimes see ebay adverts with no picture and almost no information & wonder if they are...

ok but he bought 4 cans... so for a one-off, pay the same and get it done properly... (?) ChrisFix did a YT video on how to do it, I assume it's worth buying the kit if you've got more than 1 car to do... link to chrisfix youtube video

The recharge kits & cans etc are expensive - If it's to be a one-off event, surely would have been cheaper to get a garage expert to do the work? Or do you have repeat work planned?

Trouble is, you paid £1250, but if it needs a new clutch and windscreen there's probably £2k needed for that... You might be best looking for the scrap value, or strip it for parts...?

Might be unrelated to your issue, but repeated journeys of only 4 miles can't be good for a battery... Seem to recall reading somewhere that a 20minute run is needed to replace the Amps drawn at startup? Anyone able to confirm or refute this? My brother used to have a half-mile commute (+home...

Your connectors look clean and dry compared to mine, which was running just fine even with all that oil in there. Replaced the injector loom on mine anyway. I found even more oil when I levered-out the white pin-guide on the loom side. No sign of any "white rectangular seal" on mine either...

No idea personally, but I'd imagine experts on here would want to know for sure, like, is it petrol or diesel, rather than make any assumptions, like I dunno if SD4 and TD4 are that different, etc. If you don't know, some engine pictures might be nice...

I got a mobile mechanic to replace my starter instead of doing it myself (I blame my arthritic fingers & thumbs and the bad weather, else I would have done it myself, honest). Anyway, 2 weeks later I removed the top cover to clean the MAP sensor and found 2 other issues... 1. immediately to the...

Yes it wasn't blocked so a cotton rag and elbow grease was sufficient. What is sensitive inside the hole? :D

Is that a sintered-bronze bush for the turbo-wastegate pivot ? Mine was sticky, so decided to lube it. Hardest bit was removing the heat shield - two bolts above exhaust manifold were ok but the rear one was welded to the turbo. Luckily the rear part of the bracket was broken, so only had to...

Cleaned my MAP sensor, only cos I saw it somewhere on here... dunno if that mess was bad, or normal? before & after pics... ('01 D2 td5 auto 129k)

I just read this "somewhere else"... STD 90/110 FRONT SPRING measures 260mm +/- 5 mm The REAR SPRING should be around 300 mm +/- 10mm STD Disco/RRc FRONT SPRING measures 250 mm +/- 5 mm The REAR SPRING should be around 300 mm +/- 10mm I have no independent info, just thought this might be...

😆 Hands up if you've got a crystal ball for the answer :vb-weyes: :mexicanwave:

I did the patch on engine side first (below the brake servo) but welded it from below as access was easier - partly from the pedals side but mostly from in the wheelarch. Then I welded the patch below it, mainly from the wheel side but also a few tacks from inside the footwell. I made (but...

Take a load of pictures, post them online (here if allowed, or ebay, or autotrader) to get the biggest potential audience. Be truthful about the dodgy bits as well as the good bits. If you Can't get an MoT without spending any money, then you might get £300 off a scrapyard. If you Do get an MoT...

Water does get into that spot on 3 sides - 1 condensation / leaks just above the carpet/ insulation, around the weld-point 2 in the wheelarch & partly covered by the liner, which can trap moisture-laden dirt against the joint 3 inside the engine compartment, behind the soundmat which again traps...

Mine had holes high and low... The low one was easy enough, but the top one was right where the bulkhead met the inner wing. Managed to weld it up, but was so relieved to be finished I forgot to take pictures. Relieved as in, loads of smoke but happily, no fire... Also, Really close to...