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I have 2 engines with bottom end failure, ( one 2012 with big hole in the block where con rod came through and second engine 2010 with a seized crank caused when breaker bar put on the bottom pulley bolt, without a pulley) ...both heads considered good, but still on the engines.

Could you share a picture of the plastic intake manifold, (where the swirl flaps should be)? Might be 1 missing?

Looks to large to of come through the intercooler. ?

I think both cam sprockets have markings on them to line up, better still I'm sure a digital version of the FL2 workshop manual is available to download somewhere on this site? (EDIT no , as the file attachment feature won't allow large uploads, I've just tried)

FYI 2 things I'm aware of that can effect the life of a diesel fuel injector pump:- 1. A car that has been mis fuelled in its lifetime (e.g. diesel engine car - ran with diesel/petrol mix), lowers diesel viscosity, which the FL2 pump pistons rely on to operate effectively and causes premature...

With the pump off, its a good opportunity to check the fuel pump drive cam (on the engine) for damage.

Fair point, can,t be both........... possibly neither. Low battery causes lots & lots of ECU mayhem, all those 12v devices trying to run on 11v (during cranking)..you can even watch the battery voltage drop with live data OBD2

All ECU fault codes deleted? With live data, a user can monitor all available sensor information in real time, during cranking (even if the car doesn't start) and while running. . Whatever new codes are generated during starting can be read and hopefully provide direction for fixing. most (ebay...

Safety tip acknowledged Nodge.

Yes, You can crack off an injector and look for diesel while cranking, but your OBD tool should indicate a poor pump without a spanner to anything. Are you familiar to live data functions?

That's a lot of fault codes... Anything observed from live data?

Nice fix, especially the additional screws I know from experience that glueing on its own eventually ends with the cog plate falling off during use. Even after following the instructions

Hi jd. Assuming the timing locking holes line up on the cam pulley and flywheel, ( remove starter motor for access), i would consider the engine is timed ok, unfortunately that won't tell you if the injector pump camshaft drive-end has sheared though? I've come across threads showing pictures...

My FL2 was bought as a none runner, and during fault finding I initially diagnosed an intact belt too....weeks of starting attempts followed, until I decided on doing a cambelt change while the cars was on axle stands, ( to ensure the engine timing was correct) I've changed a few timing belts...

I would use a scanner to delete the codes left on the ECU, then see what pops up during cranking, The difficulty at the moment is the plethora of codes generated and which ones are still relevant to the source fault. PS. My FL2 had stripped several teeth on the cambelt without snapping. To...

Thanks Nodge, was thinking the shafts/cv joints would pull out of the hub, similar to the front?

I like to get my hands dirty once in a while.

I need the car as a daily driver and thought about dropping the diff/haldex/& rear drive shafts from the car. Thinking the car would still be drivable, then refurb the diff and Haldex. In terms of special tools, can they be made?

Appreciate the reply Nodge. That's the bearing for the shaft directly connected to the Haldex unit?

The prop shaft on my 2010 td4e had a little rotational play, before I removed it completely. (the back wheels were scrabbling while driving around a tight circle) Haldex clutch seized? I originally thought the 2 piece prop - shaft had developed play/damage at the centre bearing sliding element...