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I think I was the one to confuse everyone. I think the blue filter container looks great blue, mine is grayish / silver on my 73 series 3 I believe and wondered if blue was an original color. As for a refurb on my oil bath air filter I'll most likely keep it satin black

Was the oil filter canister silver?

Wow, I really like the blue. I thought maybe it was to match the engine color or the body color. I'm really going to think about the finish produce...be traditional or more creative. Thanks to all

Contemplating doing a makeover on the oil bath filter. I googled the OEM 1973 color and google responded with the color Blue. Has anyone seen a stock factory Blue filter?

Both the Richards and Marshland are available to me in the US pretty close to home. Why would I choose one over the other? Technically I could buy other nameless brand semi locally. A few hundred dollars cheaper but I'm not really interested, too afraid of poor workmanship.

Hello all, in conjunction to a earlier post this week about replacing chassis parts I need to change direction. I really don't need parts I need a chassis. I've look around before and I think I want the Marshland for it's being closest original. During the process of a chassis exchange does most...

That's pretty much what I figured I'd need to do. Thanks to all for their input

I guess in reality that's the answer to the whole problem. I think I was looking for a way to double check position. Very crust and maybe not first time repair so a certain amount will have to be removed before getting a correct location and is going to be interesting.

The two right behind the rear crossmember holding the leaf springs

Hello everyone, As I'm clean the chassis I've discovered the leaf spring brackets are really tired, meaning they need to go. I was wondering if I could use the leaf spring itself as a positioning tool to remount the new brackets like I have watched other owners do when they replace the front...

It most like will be. I wanted to enjoy it more on the road but it looks like a complete strip down is on my horizon.

All the advice has been helpful. The pass few days the weather has been good and I spent a fair amount of time evaluating my project. It looks like it worst than I thought. The more you look ...reality becomes clearer. Most of the chassis has had a hack repair done at some point and the rest is...

Thanks Lynall, the moisture and rust issue never acured to me. Before I dig it and take a look is there any other area that might have a rusty surprise waiting for me that I'll have to address it before using the welder?

I actually do have a mig welder. Although it's been quite a while since I've made an attempt to use it.

Not being a welder, yet, why would 3mm be easier than 2mm? Heat distortion of the thinner metal? There's a metal store almost right in the neighborhood so obtaining what I need shouldn't be a problem.

Hello all, The better weather seems like it's on the way so it looks like I'm going to attempt so needed projects. My chassis needs attention and what ever repair I'm making will be done in place, meaning dissembling only as needed. Rather to make a repair than total replacement if possible...

Well, problem solved... defective coil wire. Absolutely nothing to do with the electronic ignition. Seems I was too quick to blame new technology. Miktdish, thanks for the help.

Thank you Miktdish for your input. To be honest, a lot of your statement was beyond my knowledge of understanding this subject. The Landy came with this setup, no idea it's age or it's shelf life. Especially after all the effort in testing and it sounds like a quality of effort will be needed...

Hello everyone I was moving my Landy around in the driveway with difficulty getting it started. After I succeed and wanted to return it, it's refused to start. After checking what I could I did a spark check on the plugs...no spark at all. The tool manufacturer suggested this was an ignition...