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If you have drums on rear they often "glaze over" and need be deglazed. I generally use aluminium oxide paper to clean rear drums on wifes car before mot. This often shows up on braked test but driving car brakes seem OK. I'd try this before spending money on brake fluid etc.

As important-clean and neutralise spilled battery acid as will rust through in no time. Bi-carb works.

Had a D2 with LPG all sources near me stopped selling it and stupid little petrol tank wasn't practical so got a rust free Jap import

no premium

yes v8

Check your tyres, had a nightmare last autumn with similar problem, it turned out tyres although they had deep tread the rubber had hardened and no longer gripped properly. new set of tyre fixed it dead.

If the terminal on the end of the cable is crimped on, it is highly likely the strands of wire are corroded, and the cable needs to be replaced, this is a common problem on a lot of vehicles and often melts fuse boxes on newer cars with high output alternators.

If I remember correctly there is a wire spring that need lifting up to release plug

have you checked harness at door hinges? The wires can break there.

I found that plumbers PVC pipe weld works on most car plastic trim panels.

Use poly bushes they can be fitted without a press

Hi looking at the circuit diagram for ECU a feed appears to come from the ECU (MFI) to the coil and pulses from the distributer will be sensed from there. There are no crank shaft or camshaft sensors.

Ideally you need it isolated otherwise there could be another path which would give a false reading. It depends on the circuit, it may only be connected at one end on that meter (with no wire on terminals). if you get 2 very different readings in each direction it is probably ok. If all the...

What i thought is a shunt is that metal strip that appears to be between the terminals. but it could be a bi-metallic strip that is moving the needle which is usually how the non-ballsitic (slow) gauges work which give an average reading as opposed to a moving coil meter which would "flicker"...

its most likely that one or both resistors have failed allowing the whole current to flow through the coil/meter. First step is to measure the resistors if you have access to a multimeter/ohm meter. If you cut one end off you can check the value against the code on the body of the component (the...

Sorry looked like centre zero ammeter. In that case its broken. I have had several ammeters with spade connectors on rear from old ammeters circa 1960's they were only 30-0-30 Just googled part number which led to Smiths web site and listed as 90-110 voltmeter, tried to find wiring diagram but...

On yours I believe it is the lefthand relay at the bottom behind the righthand trim panel between door and pedals. In landrover Rave manual it is called ignition load relay K127

Its an ammeter not a voltmeter!!!!! It needs to wired between the battery after the fusible link and before the fuse boxes,

I had this on classic RR started fine cold but just wouldn't work if tried to restart after short stop. Hour later started as there was nothing wrong. It turned ot to be the "ignition relay" it came on but wouldn't pass any heavy current. This gradually got worse, when it failed completely I...

It looks like the wires for the winding have been worn through. There is excessive end float in the stator which has rubbed and worn through the wires. The bearings are probably gone, throw it away and stop wasting your time.