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Thank you Alibro. I understood your restrictions on chassis modifications. Hope the car passes. And true, these Tesla parts are a work of art and awesome engineering. :D Hopefully, I get it to work at the full 11kW.

I am circling back to this CAN stuff as I wait for the final parts to arrive. Thinking to build this data set out so that I can add to the pool of knowledge you already shared. I don't have an ECU so I will heavily rely on what I can manipulate and customize from the Tesla Drive unit together...

I then measured up a new custom battery and DC-DC converter mount using card-board CAD. I ended up with the final mounting frame below to hold the 12v 80Ah Lithium accessories battery and 2.5Kw DC-DC converter that will charge it from the 400V main battery pack. The battery goes to the top...

Once the main harness was done, I switched to the engine bay to complete the wiring for the iBooster brake system, electric steering, electric PTC heater and accessories wiring from the main fuse box. This is what I started with; This is what I ended up with. I will be sealing the entry hole...

I got into laying and installing the custom wire harnesses as well. Started with the main Tesla drive unit harness, that runs under the car. Drilled an entry hole next to the brake lines' ingress ports. Then I just ran the harness through it, without a grommet. I figured I will seal this with...

Got time off work to get more work into the conversion Finished and installed the rear tray My phone was dying so took this poorly lit photos of it installed at the back. It is installed using rivet nuts on the frame into the rear floor, I will continue and complete this later with 1/4" ply...

LONG POST ALERT!! So finally got some time to continue work on this EV conversion build. Continued on the wiring pieces of work specifically completing the main harnesses. Completed the main drive unit control harness. Electric Brake iBooster harness Electric Steering rack controller and...

While the batteries where charging, I figured I take the time to complete the brake lines and install all the new plumbing as well. New brake lines to the ibooster fit well and the new reservoir as well. I guess bleeding the master cylinder is the logical next step.

Took time off the car and started to work on the batteries. Soldering all the 96 BMS sense wires and fuses took longer than I thought. The plan here was to charge the modules to the same voltages and match them in pairs with at least a 100mV delta. Over the next couple of days as...

More updates on the build here; I finished putting back the dash together and all wiring is done. These are the only errors I get on the dash. Starting from the left: 1. The hand-brake light will go off once I reinstall the hand brake and loop the brake fluid level sensor. 2. The doors light...

With a push to put the dash back together, I built the replacement electric heater for the engine-driven one using a 1000W PTC heater capable of 500W and 1000W working modes. I made a custom holder to match the original engine coolant-driven heater dimensions and it slides into the AC...

Yes, I will water-cool the batteries using the same loop with the charger and DC-DC converter. This is a separate loop from the one cooling the Tesla drive unit. There is a custom double-sided double-pass water block that sits between the battery packs that I intend to order from China or build...

Yep, I actually used your findings to validate what I got. Let me put together my finding and solutions and share them with you. Correct, I initially planned to have 32kWh total but found out I could have 16KWh at the back fuel tank space and 32kwh in the front bonnet space (which is basically...

@Alibro Think this is the best use of the fuel tank space I could come up with. The entire 16kwh 400V pack will fit here.

That took me a whole 2 months to sort out, on and off as I had work as well. But was definitely worth it. I mostly removed the engine ECU and gearbox EAT-related wiring PS: I was able to test out the CAN system extensively as well and formulated a few solutions to the loss of the Engine and EAT...

Thanks, and you are right, that fuel tank area is a trapezium cross-section. Found a way of building a battery box that fitted it. I will update you on how the steering rack works and feels

Then I mounted the drive unit to the new frame and buttoned it up for installation to the car.

Thank you all! Especially to you Alibro, You put me on this path! :D I re-used the original steering column. I only swapped the steering mechanism; replaced the hydraulic one with the electric one. You will be surprised to note that the Freelander hydraulic rack is an almost perfect match to...

The new subframe test fitting was great! Went the extra step of test fitting the battery box and determining if my initial plan works....and it does!!!

Built the first and second iterations of the frame for the motor and finally perfected it for strength