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Check the steering column top bearing too, it doesn't get much protection from grit and dirt...if it falls apart the wheel will feel a bit looser but the balls will jam.

I'll get a photo of the gearbox mounts and pedal rubbers tomorrow. I've binned the prop gaiters - the first ones lasted 2 months with the car not even moving an inch! Now on the 3rd lot with 300 miles and no signs of falling to bits yet. Bearmach haven't answered my email so far but will see...

Thanks. Yeah, to be honest it's more the bother of changing it - the mounts are only about £6 each, but I'd rather pay four times that for a mount which lasts years rather than months.

Yeah, that's true. May have been on the shelf for years. I can see it happening with maybe one rubber part though, but when everything rots at the same time I find it hard to believe that it's all been sitting there for ages.

Hi all, I've replaced a bunch of rubber things on my Series 3 during the rebuild over the last few months, and most of it is rotting already. They mostly came from Bearmach - pedal rubbers, prop gaiters, engine/gearbox mounts. The last lot of pedal rubbers for example were Britpart from...

What hubs do you have? Selectro, Fairey...

Yep, agreed - pull the half shafts out and have a look. It's the only way. If they're intact then pull the diff cover.

Well... They spent all afternoon with it, on and off the rolling road and ended up replacing the TRW front wheel cylinders/shoes with different OEM ones, bled the system and all works fine now. Apparently both leading shoe and one trailing cylinder (brand new!) were sticking under pressure...

If the rear prop shaft is spinning in 2WD mode but you're not going anywhere, it's a rear axle problem. In 4WD in your case, the car's being driven by the front axle only. Check your rear half shafts to make sure they aren't broken or have been removed for towing; unbolt the drive flange in the...

True that. I welded up an 'adaptor' for an electric demolition hammer to drive it out as a lump hammer wasn't touching it. 30 seconds of rattle and a bit of heat and it dropped out.

Fighting to keep it in a straight line generally means that the steering box is worn or needs adjustment. The worm wears and allows the balls to move, causing play, and once the top/bottom bearings have play it adds to the issue. Tweaking the adjuster will take up some of the play from a worn...

Thanks for all the replies. Re-piped the system to bypass the shuttle valve yesterday (straight from master cylinder to front/rear unions) and chamfered the shoes, no improvement. Took it in to a local Land Rover specialist this morning as I was going mad, they've put it on their rolling road...

Interesting - there's contact marks along about half of the front shoes, nearest the cylinders as expected. I'll rub down the part contacting first and see if that helps things.

It is, yep - the valve just controls the dash light. There's definitely no leaks anywhere, the level in the reservoir doesn't drop and the whole system is completely dry. The shuttle valve isn't leaking fluid between front and rear sections of the piston either, I've removed the switch and it's...

Pedal return spring is fitted, and the master cylinder is fully returning to its home position. Conventional bleeding also works fine, fluid flowing easily from all bleed nipples. Double checked the front shoes and springs this morning, springs are all definitely in the right place. Thanks for...

The rear axle is definitely coming on strong, I can lock up both rear brakes with touch of the pedal. NSR comes on first but with a bit of adjustment I've got both rear ones working at roughly the same strength. Drums are original but in good condition with no scoring, and the new pads are TRW...

The master cylinder has two sections to the piston, one for the front and one for the back. The reservoir is also divided in two internally, so if the rear develops a leak for example, that section of the reservoir will drain but the front will remain full and operational. The shuttle valve's...

I replaced everything except the shuttle valve and master cylinder due to multiple stuck/leaking slave cylinders, and the problem with no front brakes was occurring then. Thinking it was the front section in the master cylinder that was leaking, I replaced the master cylinder but the problem...

Thanks all. I replaced all the adjusters and checked them with the drums off before adjusting with just the drums on, so I'm confident they're all working properly. When assembling I also greased the cylinders with Brembo grease, and the front cylinders are moving correctly, I've checked by...

It’s high and pretty firm, pumps once just a little barely perceptible bit. Thanks.