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After much fiddling, electrical tests, earth points checking, cleaning and all. It ended up being the light relay clicking but not doing its job. I also found out how much custom made electrical has been made (stationary heater, inverter, towing pulley, top light beams, rear light beam and much...

Not much luck with that one I'm afraid @sierrafery

I found the dashboard earth which seems fine, not sure where to look for the others.

Defender it is. Sorry about that.

TD5. 2005.

Hi everybody, I had intermittent failures with the headlight during summer, scared me the first time it happened while driving in the mountains and plain dark. But hopefully full beam has always been working, playing with the light switch usually proved something was wrong as I was also loosing...

The dodgy pulley eventually snapped yesterday... Hopefully only a few km away from home. Belt went nuts and ended teared apart. Ordered parts yesterday, got delivered today. All fixed. Didn't remove the fan (couldn't anyway). Sounds smooth again :)

Thank you so much for your kind help. Will keep you posted.

Sorry about that. It is now fully accessible.

Here is an extra video where the noise is more flagrant. Feels like belt and pulleys renewal is required. What do you think?

After investigating properly (sorry I didn't even bother opening the bonnet initially as I felt so confident about the state of the engine, and it was pretty late in the evening), it appears the noise comes around the power steering pump. But it's pretty hard to locate with precision.

I think your diagnostic is correct. Definitely a gearbox bearing. Got to search which one now, I guess I should lift the whole vehicle to find out where the noise comes from exactly.

Greetings everybody, Our TD5 is making this weird noise, it kind of used to always be there, very discrete, but it now got super loud, and gets noisier the faster I rev. If I disengage the clutch, it disappears instantly, which obviously drives me thinking it is something related to the...

Now I understand the mechanics of it at least... At a cost!!! And why reversing back till the position where you engaged Lock could catch all the plays back and allow you to Unlock. We drove quite a fair bit with Lock engaged on tarmac before all hell broke loose (~8km... :mad:). Thank you for...

I had to try... Was stupid I admit... No straight access to a field here I'm afraid, but if tomorrow's weather is nice, I'll reach the mountains where there are some proper tracks, the land is pretty dry those days though...

Hi Everybody. I hope you're all doing great and so are your Landies! Got the parts (at last!), Brexit + Covid, took 3 bloody weeks. Took the opportunity to change all seals, greased bearings properly on left CV joint as it was in such a mess. Didn't take pictures though... But looks pretty...

Excellent discussion, learnt a lot from you. Also read this afterwards which reinforces your statements: outsideonline.com/2096381/4wd-vs-awd-whats-difference The braking trick is also detailed and explain how it redistributes traction over all wheels. It all makes sense now!

Thanks @flat , I'll go for GKN again then. Checked the price direct through LR: 366€ the shaft + 326€ the pivot. Crazy! Ordering now with CV joint servicing kits and new bearings for both sides, l'll try to do this right. Got a pull meter on Amazon also so I can fine tune the CV joint preload.

Greetings gentlemen, I've been digging internet for parts over the weekend, can't believe the price difference for the shaft between Britpart, GKN (which was what I got) or genuine. Rougly Britpart: 30€, GKN 115€, Terrafirma about 200€, Genuine over 365€... I see that I can get a brand new GKN...

Hi @tottot I found a few splits of metal some about 10mm, pretty neat and sharp, like machined, but not much. I caught the ones I could with a long flat screwdriver, used a flashlight within the axle, looked clean, but you can never be so certain. All those nasty bits could have well luckily...