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Just an update I’ve found a place in wales called we r p38s that seem to have good knowledge and are willing to do the chain. I’ll update on here once it’s all done and dusted.

Exactly my thinking, i remember him telling me he advanced the timing because it ran lumpy at 750rpm At this point i'm more thinking its the timing chain not the FIP because it ran fine on the original engine, that and the modulation reading.

I vaguely remember him saying he tried setting it at the correct spec and it idled badly. So I assume that’s why it’s ticking over at 820, with him messing about to cover an issue he couldn’t be bothered dealing with. but I’ll check the static and see where it’s at.

Would it not be best to get the static timing 750 first and see what the modulation is then. I’m confused as to why the mechanic would time it out in the first place, because he had to fit the FIP from my original engine onto the new one as it didn’t come with one.

At this point when I’ve figured out if it’s FIP or chains I’ll just go ahead and replace.

Re done the readings at 95 and they still seem way out. Im right in saying this is pointing to a slack chain?

I’ll get it up to about 95 and take another reading. From what I gather from reading up the correct settings are:- 750rpm fuelling @ 128 on nanocom 5-6 mg/str modulation 50% (+/- 5%) Modulation of 95 is the max the electronics can account for chain stretch apparently, I’ll post back when I get...

Right I’ve got some nanocom readings for you lot to look at I’ve read some old threads from 2014 about FIP readings and I’m lost. I hope some of these numbers mean something to you. all I can suss out from this is that the static timing can’t be right because it’s meant to idle at 750. Much...

Old engine was 108k when it failed and this “new” one is 160k

No error codes but I’ll check again tonight and doesn’t sound too horrible when on but I’ll check with the nanocom.

I can give a listen with a long screwdriver, my train of thought was that of stretched chains due to the car starting fine with the old engine until it blew up on me. This is what I’ve been trying to decide for all this time if it was the pump or the chain but there’s no easy way to find out...

Spoke to a firm called feather diesel in Halifax who advised me it’s probably a worn pump that’s been timed incorrectly to account for whatever’s worn. Gonna check the modulation later tonight on the nanocom just to see where it’s at and update on here.

How close is closer :confused: I’m losing hope at this point. I wouldn’t even want to attempt it myself to be honest by the time I buy the tools I need it’s gonna be easier to just get it done by someone with them already.

It’s had full set of new glow plugs when I had the new engine put in originally, On another note I’ve now tried to call every mechanic suggested on this thread so far to no avail. Ither said they don’t have the tools or they don’t touch anything that old.

ive had a good read of rave and a few posts detailing it, as always with these beasts it looks incredibly easy on paper. id be more inclined to have a go if i had indoor space to try it.

Quotes like that are gonna make me try it and destroy the engine :D

Well just for an update, apart from moorside 4x4 who havnt got back to me, none of them are prepared to even look at it.

I was meaning for the chains doing and FIP timing back up.

Got a set of arnott for mine but It was fairly simple after I got stuck into it, with the help of a dremel of course.

What do you reckon would be a reasonable price for the work. I’ve a rough idea but I know some of the ones round me are right con artists. When I first got the car a garage called green oval quoted me 800 for 4 new bags :eek: safe to say that’s when I downloaded rave and broke the spanner’s out.