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The original lifter doesn't have the small metal disc under the cap, and no hole in the cap as the new ones...

I think i will try this : change all my cups with the original ones : they match perfectly with the pushrods and they are a little less deep than the new one, so i don't need to shim the rocker arms...and i could put some oil in all the lifters during that time. Just to be sure they are ok for...

Any advice about that ?

My new lifters and new cam need preload setting. I didn't change the pushrods , they are ok. I compare the new OEM with the original , it s quite the same (photos) except the size of the cup that hold the pushrod inside, it's larger and deeper. I wonder if i can put the original "cup" on the new...

Tanks , i read a lot about preload sequence, this one is new fo me ;)

i chek a third time the preload : half the lifter have 1,5 mm (ok) and the others 2 mm (slightly above tolerance)

Are you sure ? if i put shim under the arm the push rod will raise a little and the piston in the lifter too, so the gap decrease...

Something upset me about lifters : they should be primed with oil after 2 weeks in the oil, and some have much less resistance than others when i push the piston ...they dont have the same quantity of oil inside as they should. how ca i be sure the all have enough oil inside to be perfectly...

Finally i have a 2mm (0,08") preload on almost my lifters. So a little above the tolerance. I should buy a shim kit...i need only the 0,03" set...if someone doesn't use this set , i'm very interested ;)

same for me !

Possibilité de mettre des entretoises, oui ;) Je viens de vérifier la précharge des poussoirs, ils sont dans la tolérance de 0,5 à 1,5 mm entre le circlip et le dessus du piston. Finalement entre l'épaisseur de mon joint composite et la forme de mes nouveaux poussoirs avec leur gorge un peu plus...

I v'e just put my new lifters and cam and keep the old pushrods that are in good shape. I notice the top of the new lifters is a little larger and deeper than the old one , about 1 mm, and my composite head gasket is thicker than the tin one. The result should be not enough preload for my...

I just hope i d'ont have a gasket leak near the water holes. I go under the engine, oil sump out, and moving the crank... it seems the bubble air sound is near or inside the autogearbox ? may be it's ok and i go paranoiac :vb-gémissement2:

60 NM ...i dont' think gasket moved. some water again in the block (water holes at the rear of the block) i did not flush after removing the heads...

I did'nt flush the block...but the air shoud not go in the coolant circuit ?

I'm dumb o_O Finished to torque to 90 NM and pull off the plugs...less resistance to turn the cranck of course (less than 25 NM), but still hear air mixed with water (like bubles sound) on the rear side of the heads.

i could try once i put back the pushrods ...

What upset me is that the air don't seems to go throw the cylinders but only at the rear of the heads as if i had a leak near the water port...and it makes a" bubble sound", dont know how to explain it. For instance I torqued the heads to 60 NM, not yet to 90 NM.

HI, I 've just put back my Heads (with spark plugs) with a new gasket (Elring composite). When i turn the crank , I need 40 NM torque and even more after first move, and i can hear compressed air coming out almost at the rear of the heads ... Is it normal ? Valves leaks ? video here...

arrived today , very good quality indeed ! it's not a composite but called "soft metal"...may be the same. It's 1,4 mm (less one time compressed) and 0,15 mm more near the outerside of water hole (red line) , that s a great evolution because of the often leaks on this part, almost for my heads...