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Thanks guys, appreciate the help! I managed to get it all back in and sorted, you were correct Dag, lots of swearing but fortunately no splitting of said box! in the end I put some masking tape over the shaft so that the plastic clip couldn't move back up the shaft, then I put a 10mm deep...

Sadly not 😞 the original fob is missing the button switch on the actual chip board. The other has really bad corrosion. I have tried soldering parts off each other to no avail. Thanks Stanley

Hi guys, I have taken everything apart ready for a new slave and master cylinder. The top fluid was indeed black, but I think my problem was a little more than just that. When I took off the slave cylinder, I pulled the slave clear out, but the pin inside came out with it. Thankfully out...

Gotcha, thank you both!

Hi Lynall, If the fluid is black, would that mean replace the fluid or swap out slave+ master? Thanks Lynall,

Think I'll give it a go. Did you keep the coder, and is it possible to have two keys supplied?

Hi all, I have a 200 TDI defender which has been sat for a few weeks on my driveway. I jumped in to move the old girl and it wouldn't let me push into gear... I can feel resistance when I push the pedal down, but nothing happens, slight change in noise from the thrust bearing, but physically...

Interesting, and to be honest... Far cheaper than going to a dealer. Have you used that particular site before? No problems with the new fob or alarm? Thanks Anaconda, massively appreciated!

Hi everyone, Unfortunately both key fobs for central locking have died and I'm not sure how I go about replacing them. I have seen online that I can buy a new fob with the chip, but how do I program one? Alternatively what cost would I be looking at for a replacement from Land Rover? Any...

Thank you, Would that be part number: NRC8618

I shouldn't say that really, It'll probably go wrong again now... Looking at the fittings you've posted pictures of above, wouldn't the last picture be the fitting I'm after? As both the male and female ends will be curved? Also, will I need a washer?

That's where it got me confused, The pipes I have would be 200 tdi, but coupled up with a 300tdi rad connection? So it's been the wrong connection the whole time I've had it...

Yippee! I like an easy fix.. Not a fan of simple things going wrong, but can't have it always...

Hi Phill, Right, so this may not actually be as bad as I thought it might be... The brass fitting is what I've munched, 3/4 of the thread is now useless.

Thank you all so much for your help! Phill, I've just got home so I can't check- but please excuse my naivety... Does this mean that the stripped out connection is actually a removeable piece on the radiator end and I can just... replace it? o_O

fitting* rather

Correct, the seat has a very small bevel to it probably 0.5mm. it then has a recess where I assume a washer or 'O' ring sits... the fiotting itself is a steel tapered fitting.

The problem I'm having is that the nut gets to a certain point and slips, so i can't get enough torque behind it to press the seal. I'm still unsure whether it needs an 'O' ring or a copper washer. :(

Hi Lynall, Do the adapters replace the brass section that has threaded for mine or does it act as a sleeve/reducer for different pipe setups?

Hi guys, The engine I have is a 200 tdi from a discovery 1. I have looked online for the cooling pipes to see what should be used but none of them match the ends of mine, I've attached an image below- mine are tapered at the end but all the others online seem to be round and have a washer on...