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Ye that’s the info he had told hand when logging onto the car but my Delphi won’t get me them details frustratingly!

Not far away at all, you’ve been a huge help hippo. No it doesn’t record as and when the faults occur with mileage. The Delphi wasn’t picking up the fault he has which shows it has been occurring over past 6 months. It only picked up an engine fault last week after I cleaned the throttle...

Right..... so after the diagnostics it was confirmed the gear box is fine, it’s reacting the way it’s reacting due to an engine fault. The engine fault is an EGR fault coming from the throttle valve not the exhaust valve. The motor on the throttle valve isn’t working properly. So for example...

How ever I’ve just realised I’ve kind of already dis proved the theory of 5th. It can’t do 5th and go backwards

So I’ll give the example of other day when I forced the car to fault. Sat car at bottom of drive, in Drive, hand brake on. Left it for ten mins as if I was stuck in traffic (extreme traffic I know) then put the car into Reverse (driveway has a 10% incline) the car set the ff in reverse extremely...

Ye the whole engine/gear box getting warm when stationary due to lack of air flow was something I half hearted pieces together with the fault only occurring after been stationary. Then ye rubber hoses may open up as they get warm but finding the pin hole if there is one somewhere is a needle in...

Right so I’ve spoken to the local auto box specialist who also specialises in Land Rovers and had done his fair share of work on this model gear box. I put the valve body idea to him which he suggested the car isn’t showing sufficient symptoms to prove this theory although it is a common issue...

Looking at the Symtoms for a failing valve body I’m struggling to marry it up to the issue I’m having. Yes I get a delay on shift when the problem occurs, but why only when the cars been sat in traffic? I feel like the delay is a reactive symptom to real problem that lies with the gearbox or...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/05-freelander-td4-loosing-power-when-hot.251949/

Ye sounds like i differs from what I’m getting. I’ve had a go at getting to the EGR valve to strip and clean. WOW what a pain in back side that is to get to! I didn’t manage to get it off how ever I did get as far as the socket which provides it power so my theory, unplug (yes it will fault and...

Suggesting that this doesn’t seem to be the issue I’m having? When I bought the car to be fair I never expirenced this issue it was only typically happening around 3 months after I bought it when the warranty ran out! Is this software update something I just really cl up to Land Rover and ask to...

Generally pulling away or setting off the car is in 2nd. It will happily drop and move through gears well depending on how much pressure I apply to the throttle. When the cars not faulting it drives like a dream. When sat in traffic over the months the problem has been going on we have tried...

Hi freelance, I’ve only had the car 6 months and I can’t find any paper work to suggest it’s had any software updates. It has been fully serviced by Land Rover but it seems that means nothing. It’s not a pulling away issue it’s a general driving fault which occurs for a period of time after...

The reason I had the air con on was purely due to me trying to replicate if the issue re occurred after fluid change. The fault occurs without air con on but the air con makes the situation worse to the point where the car doesn’t move. The gear box fluid was upwards of 70 degrees when I tried...

Before and after. No shaving or particles in the dark used fluid.

Issue remains as expected. Left car in drive with handbrake ON, air con ON, for ten mins. Car wouldn’t even get up the drive around 10% gradient. Air con OFF car went up the drive but issue of high revs driving slow remained. Clutch issue now ruled out. Would you advice looking at the egr valve...

Right so transmission fluid changed all 7litres using the drain plug method followed by the oil cooler output pipe. Bright red fluid in Very brown fluid put. Not burnt smelling but very much past it’s sell by date. Photos to follow in next hour or so.

Is it worth taking the cover off whilst doing the fluid change to check the solenoid? Or just check for burning smell to rule clutch’s in or out? Will I need to change fluid again if it is the solenoid playing up?

Brilliant stuff thanks. Ye I’ve got the guide to oil change printed off at the ready from other threads I’ll up date with fluid quality & photos once complete. If I get enough time today I may approach taking the egr off for a clean as well to rule that in or out

Out of interest is there anything I need to be keeping my eyes peeled for or look at whilst doing the transmission fluid change. Which could be causing the fault, like the solenoid where is it? Will I be able to tell by looking at it if it’s failing? Doing the fluid change this morning. Cher’s