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Hi Guys. So I bought a replacement o-ring and fitted it. Problem solved. :) As I tried to describe a few posts back, I am guessing that the o-ring pickup must have been leaking, allowing what was around the connection, into the pump. When the oil is cold, it is sticky enough to nearly seal...

I believe 'morse chain' is also known as 'silent chain'. A google of silent chain brings up: Silent Chain Drives compared with roller chain: Higher speed and power capacity. Reduced noise and vibration. Greater efficiency. Less velocity variation. Higher efficiency (as high as 99%)...

I'm not getting a transfer case sent UK>NZ, so if the chain alone doesn't sort it, it could well be end of the line.

With enough KMs/miles, they all do eventually. It happens earlier to those vehicles driven with a 'binary throttle'... I was pulling away with a trailer on the back today, and got the 'machine gun fire' as the chained skipped. This happened at 357,500KM (223,500miles), so it's had a good innings.

Their price is listed as £330 just for the part. This still seems extortionate to me, or maybe I'm out of touch.

Heh guys, what sources have people found for the P38 transfer box chain, at sensible money? 500quid is mental! Cheers

Thanks, I'll go through that and work out what I can. :)

It think Island4x4 just has it listed wrong (- at least according to what LR planned to do). My belief, is that the sump mating face on the V8 was a well known 'leaker' on the RR Classic and D1. For the start of the P38 (i.e. GEMS) LR kept the same steel sump but used sealant to hopefully stop...

It depends on the sump material I believe. RAVE says to use sealant.

Sure, but I don't even know a part number to ask for. There is no gasket on these (at least for GEMS), it's Hylomar/RTV.

There's no rumble. At ~1200rpm it's 40psi, at 1500rpm it's 55+psi, occasionally see it at 60psi but it doesn't go above that. I had considered doing the mains, but I believe doing so has a really high likelyhood of damaging the rear main oil seal (- replacing that is a HUUUGE amount of work)...

@Saint.V8 Did you happen to note the correct o-ring size? Then I can get one on hand before opening it up. I was in the sump a couple of years ago when I changed the big-end bearings, but the o-ring still seemed very snug at the time. I should have changed it I guess.

P38 4.6L V8, is having oil pressure weirdness at idle. Details in the video below, showing the hot-idle oil-pressure cycling between approx 29psi and 12psi. Any ideas of causes or things to check?

Then just reassemble it. It's been a couple of days now, with the underside of the car being dry - it hasn't been like that for 15 years... :)

The core-ID of the o-ring channel is 19mm. The OD of the plug is 22mm. I bought two similar o-rings 18x2 and 19x2. I tried the 19x2, but there was too much force needed to install the plug. I went with the 18x2 and with a liberal coating of vaseline a little persuasion from the back of a...

Photo showing the open channel, where the plug normally lives.

Now get into the repair. - Remove the internal circlip, using circlip pliers (- fairly easy using 45° tips); - Use a strong magnet to rock the steel cap back and forth, until it pops out (- there is some spring assistance from behind); If this hadn't of worked, I was just going to put a jumper...

OK, so I got stuck into this a few days back. Steps to do so: - Remove the viscous fan (this video may help: ); - Remove the serpentine belt, and the belt tensioner; - Carefully drain coolant into a clean bucket, from the drain in the bottom-centre of the radiator; - Remove the water-pump...

Useful photo. Do you have any tips/ideas re removing the cap with the front cover still in place? Do you think cranking with the circlip out, i.e. using oil pressure, would push out the plug? What were the symptoms of that? Just at startup, or did it continue after startup?

No, I was trying to find out the o-ring size before I get in there (and have a disabled vehicle). In order to access the spot, you need to: - remove the viscous fan; - drain most of the coolant; - remove the water-pump supply hose, just so that you can see the C-clip and plug - I still don't...