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That's properly gutting to hear :(. RIP Tony, you will be sorely missed although your knowledge will live on. Sorry about calling the P38 a truck :rolleyes: I've got a Series - can I call that a truck? :D

Morning fellow leafers, I'm restoring a 1974 88" 2.25p at the moment. I'm currently refitting the steering system, having rebuilt the steering box and painted up the steering tubes. The truck - I suspect, although not certain - was axle suffix D. It was registered June 74, so a few months...

After over a year with no update, I'm pleased to say the truck has now covered the best part of 7,000 miles since this thread ended and still runs spot on! Thanks so much for everyone's help, and for the laughs which kept me sane, especially to @wammers whose expert knowledge was absolutely...

Hahaha, sounds like you've been there before! Took a step back. Made a cuppa. The left hand long M6 bolt that clamps the head to front cover looked like the offending item. I removed the bolt, and the water leak immediately got worse. I therefore added a little Loctite 542 just in case the bolt...

The engine went back together quite nicely over the xmas period. The head was torqued exactly as RAVE describes, with new head bolts from Victor Reinz. The engine has not yet been started, so it has yet to receive the final 90' of torque. I was ready to start it up this morning. On filling up...

Appreciated. In that case I will fit the head and camshaft sprocket before I proceed any further with the crank pulley. Speaking of which, do similar rules apply for the camshaft sprocket bolt? (I.e. replace ideally, but can be reused, or is this a stretch bolt?)

Progressing quite nicely today with building it back up. Gold links correctly timed, tensioner, guide rails, lower tensioner rail all fitted, and then front cover refitted with new gasket and a smear of blue hylomar. PAS and AC pumps fitted, and now the crank pulley hub needs fitting. The...

Yes, brand new Febi Bilstein chains with gold links, new tensioner, tensioner rails and guides.

Ja, but ze Germans want to know everyzing is in ze perfect place....

Thanks Wammers, a little experimentation this evening between the rain shows that indeed my pump body needs slight clockwise rotation to be able to use LRT-12-118 to perfectly align. I managed to restore it back to Woodruff key uppermost (one about to inject) by refitting the pulley, and...

I've hit a stumbling block reassembling the engine. The woodruff key on the FIP was very slightly misaligned (less than a degree) with the sprocket when refitting, so I used LRT-12-118 to ever so slightly rotate the FIP to correct align. This was how I interpreted RAVE when it advises: 'NOTE...

Direnza have responded advising that 'with the coolant system under pressure we can confirm the vehicles coolant flows through the radiator to be cool and a baffle is an unnecessary restriction in the system.' I will leave it with yourselves to decide on whether that is sufficient......

I've sent an email back asking for futher clarity on how it works if no baffle is featured. Let's see what they say, I wouldn't like us to all assume their product is useless until we've given them a proper chance to explain.

It was the sales team at Direnza who advised me their product does not have the internal baffle.

Options were limited so had to go plastic, I may buy another and replace the plastic top with an ally top and TIG it together myself whilst I use the new Nissens one for the time being. Wammers, seen that tube when I used a borescope on the existing rad. I've checked the line from the end of...

I can't find any alloy rads with baffles, so I've sourced a new Nissens one. The plastic top is not a good idea, but I suspect they only burst if the system is overpressurised in the first place. I will of course check with a borescope to ensure the baffle is there! That's new chains, new...

Excellent, thanks for the clarification!

I've noticed lots of rads have additional outlets at the bottom. Am I right to say the auto model should NOT have these outlets? I've not worked on a manual example before, so assuming they are different.

Exactly! Were the original Land Rover radiators plastic topped? If not, perhaps I could source one and have it recored.

I've just spoken with the manufacturer of the alloy radiators, Direnza, and they have confirmed that they DO NOT contain an internal baffle. I can't understand how anyone could possibly think a radiator would flow coolant across all of its surface area without a baffle, and therefore be...