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yes, that was my thinking - the more volatile stuff evaporates, which would lead to a higher flash-point. Will try that. thanks for your help!

can old fuel be an issue? do the flammable components evaporate over time and render the fuel bad?

A stromberg I found that I still had new points and fitted them - again a slight improvement, but overall the problem remains.

Hello all - this is for a petrol 6-cyl from 1974. I am aware that there are similar posts as what I am going to write, and I apologise for this. But the advice given there did not do it for me (so far?). When I start my engine it usually starts fine but runs very rough and stalls after around...

It has been a while... But I just finally gotten around to installing a mechanical manometer, and unfortunately it confirms the measurement - the pressure with the PRV closed goes to beyond 10 bars! (see attached photo) I guess I will drop the sump again and remove all the bearings to check for...

Good idea - or hook it up to a different (stable) 12V supply. On the other hand, the temp sensor/gauge seem to read correctly, and this would be connected to the same power line as the oil sensor...

Just a short update - problem is not solved. I double checked all electrical connections on the pressure gauge (voltage reading 11.8 V with engine off), they are fine. Today I finally ran the engine up to temperature - the pressure stayed high but again dropped when I loosened the nut on the...

I will get a new spring in any case (hope I can find one at a local LR workshop, shipment from the UK is nearly impossible these days - so much so that I ended up with two sets of main bearings and two sets of big ends...). But I must say that I am relieved (thanks for the pun ;) ) that today I...

I need to think about this... I could also just cut the spring in half (approximately).

Another way to get the oil pressure down would be to remove some of the oil - but I also don't really feel comfortable with that...

I guess I could, and that way I can at least drive the car. But that is not really a satisfactory solution.... I would like to know what is wrong, and why - and I want to make sure I don't blow out the oil galleries or the filter housing at some point! :)

However... (wait for it...) i tried again to loosen the relief valve spring, and this time it had an effect! The pressure initially rose to 100 psi but then suddenly dropped to about 60-70! So the valve does seem to open, just now how it should. I was hoping that this might have released...

i know that 8 out of 14 have holes, and all my old ones do. So i conclude that also the new ones that i did not re-check have them ;) Unfortunately there was no miracle. Car started (had to wiggle the distributor again), but the pressure is just as before.

checked the spring - it compresses correctly, as fas as i can tell (my rig was sort of rudimentary; packs of sugar suddenly get a new purpose :) ). The plunger in my case had a slight mark from the ball, but i dont know if that is from now or from before. I tried to wiggle it back and forth as i...

see my last message about the bearings and bottom halves. I guess i will need to test the spring. But i think if it is the relief valve it would rather be a misalignment issue. The ball moves freely in its seat, but maybe the spring somehow pushes in a funny way.

just did that. Everything looks fine - the bottom halves are in the way they should be, the shells did not move, the holes and channels are there on all bottom halves and thus must also be there on the top ones (which i did not want to remove again) and, most imporyantly, there was oil...

I did not do the nip tests for different reasons - I don't have the calibrated papers, and I did not want to risk a test paper to get stuck between the top shell and the shaft, since I could not have removed the shaft to get it out again. So I trusted the shells to all be the same and to within...

Are you wondering about the channels? To me the shells look identical except for the way the holes are drilled/beveled.

I remembered another thing today - when I installed the new shells I first covered them in engine oil to give them an initial greasing, but that seemed not to be enough. The first times I cranked the engine the starter seemed to be having troubles and there were very unpleasant sounds from the...

Photo attached. Does it show what you are wondering about? I should add that the hole is not actually smaller on the new one, it just looks like that because of the bevel on the old one. The holes are in exactly the same position - I checked by rolling a new shell of on a piece of paper such...