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So the part no. Is STC3672 for the front shock absorbers and i happen to have a spare set & they do look to be longer. I hope the manufacturer got them right! You can see where the metal tube starts to taper towards the plastic cover. I don't think you can see the metal taper on the shorter...

Cheers, Kermit. You'd think they'd just put front and back on the absorbers themselves, but no.

Hi all, I'm about to go swap the front & rear shock absorbers over after I incorrectly installed the front ones at the rear & vica versa (or so I think). I used logic after I excitedly opened all the boxes without noting which were the front and which were the rear, so I used logic and put the...

Poped lights in today for a quick photo. they're not wired in yet, but I did chuckle to myself as I couldn't remember the car looking so goofy!

Thanks guys!:D Yes. It took me a little over a year learning and having to buy all the right parts and asking about on forums but it's all my own work aside from a friend offering advice and help when putting the thing back in. The Daleks no longer mine, haha but I did build him. he's living...

Heres the engine now (with new crankcase). And it runs too...

Thanks, James. That clears a lot up for me. :)

Thanks, James. would having an early type flywheel with a late CAV distributer cause problems or is it all the same as long as you get the correct mark on the flywheel?

Sorry to ask James but I'm a bit dense when it comes to markers (this is my first engine rebuild without any prior experience). Is that the 14° or 16° mark for the 13-124v degrees.

Cheers James. Might need to upload the pump pic again.

here's a few pics to help. The CAV picture was taken before I removed the engine and I'm not sure if you can determine which model it is in the photo.

Hi Folks, I'm coming up to timing the fuel pump and have been checking the flywheel markings. I'm not sure which type of flywheel I have; the early or late type. The markings I have after the TDC is SI | 14° | 16° and there's no gap between for me to mark out the 15° point. I'll have to check...

Hahaha! yes I do need the odd equipment upgrade! Cheers Dan!

Found it cheers! I got the engine block as a replacement and it had been left in a barn with quite a scruffy/scratched surface. My current copper gasket is 0.8mm thereabouts. Do you think this would be enough to compensate?

Cheers James, I'll have a look for that gasket. Will any Landy part dealers such as paddoc's or John Craddocks stock it? Is that depth gauge hole, you mentioned, in the front left if you were facing the engine? I can get a closer pic and post it if this helps. It is just the front piston and...

Hi folks, Hope this is in the appropriate place, but I hoped to ask your advice on my 2.25 diesel engine. No.1 piston head peeks over the surface of the engine block surface by 0.30mm on the rear edge of the piston but not the front edge. The gasket is thicker than this and there's no movement...

Yes. I've still got to take the grub screw out securing the fuel drive gear and then I can take the camshaft out too. I've taken the tappet guides out and kept the tappets and guides in the correct order as well as the pushrods.

It went when it was parked up and I started it to charge the battery. I ran for a bit before a ominous clunk and then nothing. it wasn't that loud so I assumed it was the gearbox (being naive at the time). I was lucky thinking back that it wasn't 't on the road when it happened.

You Jest sire!

Hi folks, I'm Mark, I'm 24 and just previously (about 6 months ago) I never dreamed I'd be able to fix a Lawnmower never mind replace/fix a bodged (so-called restored) series 2a gearbox and engine. But, however, I have indeed endeavoured to resolve my Land Rovers F+£k ups or shortcomings for...