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Of course I prefer lever with mechanical diff lock and this is a thread about it. ;) May be it's p38 with seized\welded VC - if you drive only\primarily offroad, you don't need differential

No. May be LT230 isn't best transfer box ever made, but it's even much more better than borg warner. If they don't like back lash, they could buy normal transfer box from normal factory. I saw a list of all Borg Warners transfer boxes, they produced only weak trancfer boxes for on-road use...

May be Borg Warners advertised their transfer box like this, but in fact it isn't true and enough to make a cat laugh, that for person on framed 4x4 with axles will be better, to loose control of center differential - I already mentioned G-classe, which was more expensive and luxury than RR in...

Ah, and that's interesting, if this Borg Warner is allegedly so good, why there's only discoveries with LT230 there? I used to drive a 2001 model year P38 with traction in deep snow - TC wasn't very helpfull, when it was engaged, but after 10 minutes of slip I saw "Traction failure" on...

I don't want viscous coupling, which works correctly, I want mech diff lock, which will never overheat and leave me alone with open diff in mud, and will not bring a shame for it in off-road discussions. Really, I don't need advices about "advantages" of viscous coupling, I hate it. And I...

Hi all. So, I am looking for a best way to throw Borg Warner's viscous coupling to trash bin and make normal diff lock system - which is fully locked or unlocked when I want it, not when "Liquid inside coupling disturbed" and all that Parquet Rover stuff. I have two major variants, how to...

Hi all So, I have a p38 4.0 GEMS and it's gearbox is broken. But I know, that 4hp24 is stronger than 4hp22 - and it is good feature for offroad - therefore I want to swap it to my P38, not to repair 4hp22. I tried to find information about successful swap, but found threads only about diesel...

Now I can say exactly, what the problem was with intake manifold - I reassembled engine with new manifold and now engine works normal. I already rode about 100 miles - all is well.

With heating, so it was correct test - expansion of metal was taken into account. Other question - how to pull off ram pipes from manifold?

I have some emulsion in oil - it's impossible to have water in combustion area without emulsion in oil :rolleyes: Unfortunately it's to hard to make a pressure test of intake manifold - simplest way is to reassemble engine with new manifold. Also block and head passed pressure test, so there...

I avoided hydraulic shock of engine because I didn't stop engine after problem detection and before I reached garage, there I disassembled engine (about 150 miles, so I had enough time to investigate problem, sometimes I had to add coolant liquid and move). I checked piston heights - they all...

But if it is a crack behind liner, why there are no traces of water on head gasket, liner hat and on the deck? Also It was strange, that there was only one fault in engine - coolant liquid in combustion area, but interior heater worked fine, no engine overheating, coolant liquid was clean (no...

I think about this - but the main discrepancy is that 100 ml of coolant liquid, passed through invisible microcrack after engine stop (I inspected cylinder walls and found only honing - no visible defects\cracks\scratches\etc). I'm going to make a pressure test of engine block and pressure...

Not exactly - I forgot to write, that I have T-type liners, with much broader hat than factory default liners - and the head gasket metal ring is on the top of liner. Like this example:

Liner protrusion is ok - there is no steps - flatness is good, and there was no coolant liquid on the top of liner, because the metal part of head gasket (frame of cylinder) was dry and without any traces of water on it and on head gasket. Yes, this combustion chamber was steam cleaned, but...

Hi all. I have 4,0 p38 - and there is a problem with engine. So, one day I found what coolant fluid level is going down very fast - with white smoke from exhaust system (But interior heater was ok). I decided, that it's a problem with head gasket and removed left head - and found normal gasket...

I just used wrong word - I meant a mechanical сuts on key, how to make my key to fit a new lock, not electronical part of locking system

But if there are handles in stock - are they programmed for random key? And are there any possibilities to reprogram lock manually (if it is a handle for a wrong key)?

Hi all. I have little question about Range Rover P38 driver's door outside handle - if I buy all new handle (with lock) how it will accept my key? It will automatically accept first key or I need to do something to reprogram it? Thanks in advance for replies

I checked - no noise or sucking air from oil filler cap. I am going to check exhaust manifold gasket first - It's easier to check. And also engine works normally - I suppose, that if head gasket is broken engine should works bad - like misfires