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tried after market ones and the vibration was awful, fitted genuine and no problems

had the same problem with LED bulbs, once on the freelander 1 sidelight and another time when I fitted daytime running lights to the 110

with a test meter you should see 12volts on the heavy wire to the output terminal on the alternator with the engine stopped and 14.4 volts with the engine running, if there is voltage present then presumably the fusible links are intact. To change the alternator if I remember the a/c pump has to...

put polybush in my 110 radius arms and it made the steering a bit vague, replaced them with genuine LR metalastic bushes and now back to normal

the idea of the rubber "bulge" is to keep air away from the dot 4 fluid to stop it attracting moisture, as the fluid level rises and falls with the operation of the clutch pedal the "bulge" allows changes in fluid level

both of mine had the same problem and a set of recon injectors cured it, the diesel specialist company said 100.000 miles is about the maximum milage for these injectors before they need replacing

have you checked the fluid level in the resovoir ? if it is low then possibly the slave cylinder is leaking, they do not seem to be very robust, on both my FL1s the clutches were replaced and the slave cylinders came out in pieces

I used a Nissen rad, vey good quality made in Denmark, a straight forward job, just the rusty wheelarch screws

I have also had a radiator leak, bottom n/s corner, assumed it was the hose connextion but a new rad sorted it out. Had to feel about to confirm the leak as you could not see it,the other possibility is the horrid little 'O' ring on the metal pipe that goes into the thermostat housing, again...

with the tin ware out of the way and an engine crane through the drivers door dropping the g/box out is easy

Had the same problem,Autoglass fitter said he would not use pattern part rubber and brought his own,initially they sent a young lad to do the job after 3 hours he gave up he said he was used to gluing windscreens in,not using old fashioned rubber !! so they sent an older chap who still struggled...

is the MAF sensor a Bosch one? have you tried it with the MAF unplugged,the engine will run on default values OK and a faulty MAF will not show a fault light on the dash ,the white smoke is unburnt fuel

dont forget the turbo turbine shaft runs on a film of oil and there should be a certain ammount of play

I have had 2 Britpart VCU's and both were GKN and no problem

when you changed the crankcase filter did you disturb any of the injector electrical connectors or any of the pipework, just changing the filter would have no bearing on the running of the engine as you have experienced it really only stops excessive crankcase pressure build up

it would be a very good idea to change the crankcase breather filter if it is still fitted, a lot now have been replaced by the cyclone type which does not have a filter,also there is a filter on the turbo vacuum exhaust line, the one hanging on a small pipe at the back of the engine and looks...

when I did mine many years ago I used a Sealey brake pipe flaring tool and cupro nickle pipe, was easy enough to do, put some anti seize paste on the fittings but keep it out of the pipework, you will need to know whether the set up is metric or imperial if you are going to change the cap nuts

the Bosch agent in Colchester recon that 100k is about it for BMW M47 injectors and they do a Bosch recon set for around £650, I had a set for my td4 a couple of years ago because it had the same problem as yours and the problem was solved

should be easy enough but if you are going to change the auxilliary drive belt you will need a special tool to release the spring loaded tensioner. One of the main jobs is to replace the crankcase breather filter, you may find the screws holding the cover plate down are difficult to remove as...

not sure what gearbox you have but my old 110 has an LT77S and that uses dextron 3 auto transmission fluid, may be worth checking that your gearbox my be the same