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Kermies a motor bycycleist so could simply keep an old nolan to hand.

Connected the nano up again and that fault has gone, so....dunno. I've got another one now though which I didn't take a pic of, evaporator ground fault or something along those lines. With not a care in the world I've fiddled further with the nano and set the numbers on the rear height settings...

Old seatbelt webbing and a bit of imagination?

They go at the bottom of the outer seatbox b piller corner. Not sure on a truck cab but normal hardtops use a long bracket for the top mounting.

That made oi laff :vb-groan2: :vb-lol: . Tech confuses me.

I've had all the centre console out right up to the eas panel before and the clocks and knee panel out, cut the ducting too for the O rings. Do I need to go further? Glovebox? I believe there are 2 motors behind that ducting (blend?) and 1 near the front and top of the heater box(distribution?)...

Rest? That was all, in the photo.

Had a play with the nano on the hvac. The blend motors don't sound happy, lots of crunching clacking sounds which I can't hear with the engine running but sound bad with it not running and driving them with the nano. They all appear to do what they are supposed to though, temperature and...

I've had them on my 110 for around 10 yrs? No issues but they wear quick but I don't do many miles. Good grip in all conditions.

I'm tempted to drop the replacement injector complete with its washer into my sonic cleaner and fit it , not replace the washer. There's nowt to bugger up dropping the lot in the SC tank is there?

New washers are super tight to get on, injectors screw in on the 38, no bolts.

Are they nanocom codes? Got nanocom I have!

Is that all :vb-groan2:. Soooo...book symbol is always one or more of the 3 motors, or the pots I suppose? Blower motor, AC or non functioning hrw for example wouldn't ping it up? Still learning:vb-lol:

Took my rear bumper off to sort the lower tailgate rubbing on it. One clip that clamps the plastic bumper skin to the steel bumper itself had come loose and I repositioned the others so that's all good now. Made an access hole so I can manually open the lower tailgate if it fails electrically...

£280 but no stock:eek:. I like mark goddard off one of the fb groups, he hasn't got a good one but has one better than mine so he is sending me that with some other bits I need. I'll see what it's like but I'll keep looking anyway for a good one. I know of James, got some bits off him 2 yrs ago.

Be aware that the fuel feed banjo bolt has a larger orifice than the return banjo bolt. They look identical when fitted to the fip and are the same head size and thread size just the internal bore is smaller on the return bolt.

Or a part number. It's the nsr I need. Any help appreciated.

Metal tangs x4 need bending back with a flat bladed screwdriver to release the old bass speaker from the housing. Slice the old foam ring off the old bass speaker and glue onto the new one. 4 x 3.5mm x 35mm countersunk screws hold the new speaker into the housing, the holes are already there in...

All back together and everything working as LR intended. Took me around 5 hrs but that included trying to refit the rubber glass runner in the nsr door. Didn't even know it was missing, just spotted it lying in the bottom of the door when refitting the original bass speaker. Mid range speakers...