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How low can you stoop? Dashounds! :oops:

It looks like the paint might be a bit faded and maybe even need a respray. Otherwise it looks decent enough. Mid Life crisis little red sports car? Aren't you a bit old for that? :vb-good:

Yip, they look pretty bad. I had to patch up a hole in my wheel arch behind the arch liner. Mud and dirt gather then stay wet and salty from road salt causing rust.

I'm a little ashamed to admit I did a similar fix to my 2004 Freelander EV. You can buy kits for this off Amazon, screw in the button base and pop on the cover, then repeat 40 more times.

Those numbers don't sound too terrible. I'd be OK with driving it for a while but the front Diff mount sounds like it needs replacing You will learn how heavy the VCU and propshaft are when it lands on your chest. :oops: Otherwise it's an easy job. The torx bolts can be held with a 1/4" hex...

The anti-roll bar prevents axle articulation which is good on the road but bad off road. I wouldn't leave them off for long but it should be OK for a test. BTW you probably already know this having replaced so many but when changing drop links always jack up both front wheels at the same time...

Lots of off roaders remove the drop links and anti-roll bar completely so why not? Remove the drop links and tie up the ends of the anti-roll bar and see how it is.

A decent FL1 should be between £1k and £2k for a low mileage example so the only reason to throw money at one is for the fun of doing it. I was talking to a guy yesterday who has bought a clean 2003 HSE with 70k for £1300

I had a rattle from a faulty shock absorber a few years ago. The cheapest way to confirm it was to buy a used strut complete from a breaker and swap it out.

Get yourself a DC Clamp meter and test the current draw at the battery, they are very useful tools to have anyway. Something like this one should be OK https://amzn.to/3GzvATs Be wary of using a standard multimeter as the current draw when connecting the battery could blow the fuse. Clamp meters...

Not from the water pump, it just drips out. I also had a leak from a plastic hose fitting that had me worried on one car.

Hopefully you have the coolant leak sorted but if still loosing a little, they also commonly loose coolant at the water pump so look out for leaks there.

The diesel struggles off road without low range to get up steep hills so the petrol will be worse. For green laning or off road racing racing they are good but not so much for extreme off roading.

Well done. I don't think it's common for the original motors to fail but I can't comment on after market ones. I guess someone must have replaced the regulator and motor at the same time in the past. I have to admit I usually order a repair kit and regulator (without motor) at the same time and...

I was going great ignoring this thread, then today I couldn't help myself and here we are again! Sorry guys, my bad! 🙁

I often wondered where the 5kg option came from. It was always 8kg when I first did the test many years ago.

The rear window regulators are the easiest to repair and there are videos on Youtube showing how.

The rear bushes are usually so hard to remove it's only worth doing if the arms are good. Replacement bushes will need pressing in unless you pay extra for the complete unit and this requires a press.

So long as he's paying the bill just go with it. It's easier that way. ;)