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At last I have an engine that is running well, no over boost. It turned out to be the turbo modulator - I fitted a new one again(I replaced it about 70 000km ago). Problem solved! I also fitted a new genuine MAF that was already ordered earlier, it does not seem to have made any major change to...

Time will tell!

Thanks for the feed back. As I said before my MAF readings are way below the figures you mention. With the AAP unplugged, I pushed hard today and at 120km/h MAF reads 450, MAP 230kPa and power is ok but not brilliant, it was 37 degrees Celsius today, so I assumed that the power would be down a...

The AAP reading looks correct to me on Hawkeye. It starts at readings of about 99.9-100.1 and drops under acceleration to 98 or thereabouts. When I talk about the MAP readings it is Hawkeye readings, in other words when I say 1.87kPa the actual boost pressure is 0.87(deduct 1kPa from reading to...

I did today and it made a little noticeable difference, the manifold pressure did not get higher than 1.87. Then with the MAF reconnected the pressure got to 2.23 easily without over boost, because I then unplugged the AAP at the same time. I reckon that the MAF is just not working well and not...

I will try the new modulator but I suspect that the non genuine MAF sensor is not performing up to standard. My air flow is very seldom above 350 and the max I get is normally about 431(at 120km/h under medium/high load). I have seen read outs showing 600.

I tried that but then the manifold pressure only got up to 1.87 and the vehicle felt weak. The waste gate rod is set with about 13threads showing. I am trying to get the engine to run as designed. The new modulator has apparently arrived at Land Rover EL.

Land Rover did not order the part. I have adjusted the waste gate rod, longer by 1.5 turns, over boost still happens.

I do not know whether the AAP is genuine. I have ordered a genuine turbo modulator and will see if that improves things.

13 threads visible.

I have not adjusted the waste gate rod, but it could have been done by the re-builder. I do not want to adjust it until I have made sure it is not the turbo modulator that is buggered again, I replaced it with a non genuine part about 70 000km ago. What will happen if I leave all three small...

Still over boosting. I suppose the link on the waste gate must be either sticking at times or the link should be adjusted. I plan to replace the sensors, but I have spent so much already that I want to take a bit of a breather. The leak on the transfer box is my next project.

At last I had time to check the injector cam timing. I was told by Shaun Hanekom(ex LR mechanic in East London, now private) that the mark on the flywheel side must be the square gap( not the round hole on which it was set at by the engine re-builder) when the hole in the cam holder and the...

The copper washers and O rings have not been replaced. Would a leak through the copper not cause the starvation of diesel through pressurizing the common rail and leak of O ring not cause the sump oil level to rise? The MAP and turbo modulator are non genuine parts.The EGR is gone. The MAF...

I found a small crack in the small pipe to the waste gate actuator but after I sorted it out there was no noticeable change. I have not touched the turbo. I have to check the cam timing first before changing electronic sensors. I changed the injector harness, MAF and turbo modulator(All...

I have had a rebuild done after the TD5 started smoking white smoke and it had been using oil(500ml/800km) over the 2 years I have owned and driving it(66 000km). Now there is black smoke at start-up and when accelerating and idles rough. Enough power and economical(10km/l). Starts first kick...

I have had a rebuild done after the TD5 started smoking white smoke and it had been using oil(500ml/800km) over the 2 years I have owned and driving it(66 000km). Now there is black smoke at start-up and when accelerating and idles rough. Enough power and economical(10km/l). Starts first kick...

The water flows through the accessory housing. I have been advised to remove the housing rather than removing the centrifugal oil filter housing. Water pump seem to be the culprit. Will also need the O ring that fits between the engine and the accessory housing. I will see once I start stripping...

I have coolant dripping from the water pump housing area. I can not say for sure whether it is only the water pump. One of the top bolts(13mm not the 8mm ones that are directly on the water pump) hidden on the turbo side, that connects the accessory drive housing to the engine, was turned out...

I do not know how to do that. I am in South Africa.