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Sounds good to me. Cheaper than a new ECU!:)

Cut long story short. Now have power to the pins aforementioned by Sierrafery and the dang thing still won't so much as splutter. I made a final attempt to check for signals to the injectors at the ECU end just in case the wiring between ECU and injector harness had been somehow severed, but...

I hope you're younger than I am, then, if you have to do hours like that. Hopefully I shall have better news soon. Until then! Tune in again tomorrow, kids. :)

Noted, thank you. May I please lie down in a darkened room with an ice pack now? Thank you.

Many thanks for that info, Sierrafery. I'm suffering from diagnostics exhaustion right now so will peruse it in the morning. If what you say is correct, the fault should be readily detectable I'd have thought. Enough for now!

OK, well we've been down so many false rabbit holes in this investigation so I'll reserve judgement on that for now. I've had it up to here today (pointing at my arse) and I'm not making any more excursions outside 'til tomorrow. I'll focus in on that area and find what's amiss with any luck...

Are you SURE about that? I did ask the auto-electrical bloke about those brown/orange wires when I had him on the phone this afternoon and he called up the diagram on his computer. Told me they should NOT be live with the ignition on!

One of the first things I did.

I have actually checked all the fuses and relays. First thing I did. I even hooked the relays out and bench tested them fully; they were fine in all respects. I freely admit I don't understand that section of the wiring diagram, though. It's nothing like I'm accustomed to.

If these are the three wires coded brown/orange shown tied together on the schematic, there are 0v on them with the ignition on. Pin 33 otoh, is reading 12V. Is that right?

Are you looking at some other diagram? Granted pin 33 is +V supply to the ECU, but pin 2 is a permanent ground connection and 22 is brown/orange here!

You're quite right about the switch of course. I'll do that. And I'll check for voltages on the other pins you mention, too.

Reset inertia switch - if it had tripped at all I can't tell - still no joy, I'm afraid. ECU still prime suspect.

I'm getting the impression you need to know how to use these things to get the best out of them so not really suitable for a (hopefully) one-off use. Well, I've tried another ingenious approach. This time I've used a low frequency sinewave oscillator to sub for the crank sensor. I've fed the...

Well, if I'd have known at the outset that a new ECU would have to be reprogrammed with one of these devices, it would have put a different spin on the matter altogether. Just going outside now to perform the final double-checks on the crank sensor...

I'm happy to take your word for it! I have too many other projects on the go at present anyway. Well, that's my lot for tonight. Testing will be resumed tomorrow... :)

Urgh! Can't do that. It would be like giving in. There must be some people in the UK who could set the new one up for me by post for a reasonable fee. I'll maybe do an online search if tomorrow's more exhaustive test of the crank sensor confirms it's good. If I had more time it would be fun (my...

So... if the ECU turns out to be shot and I buy a new one, I still have to find someone with one of these devices to 'enable' the new ECU to work on my particular Landy? That's not a welcome prospect!

It's actually a very elementary assemblage of circuitry compared to some of the stuff I have to work on. But for a car, overly complicated I admit. These testers, the high end ones I mean, do they ever return a "no idea, m8" answer? Even if it's only once in a blue moon?

I fully agree. There are some little oddities that can trip up the best of us. I'm merely ticking off these items in order of probability; seems like a logical approach.