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The lift pump runs off a cam on the cam shaft, nothing to to with belts or idler pully.

I have done the same you Simon on my Ford Focus 1800tdci, bulb makes bleeding after filter change a doddle as before it was a nightmare job. John.

No.

Think you will have to stay with the 9.5 due to flywheel location pins. With old landy's one often just does not know what others have done in the past. 2a diesel models do have 9.5 unit.

Two each their own, but I still like old method of paper gasket smeared with grease. Next time something gets opened up someone will not be struggling to clean off silicone like I recently did with 230 I sorted last year. If you do use silicone do not go daft with the amount used, stuff...

Rubbish parts then. I keep a spare rebushed panhard rod ready for a quick change.

Were the duff bush's poly type or metalastic type. Six month's is a short time for any type. There sure are some poor quality parts about these days.

When up to working temp the thermostat opens to allow coolant to rad. Most will have a thermostat that opens at 88 degrees so your reading there and on the top hose should be somewhere near that. Top of rad close and the lower down the rad face cooler.

You can check your engine temp with a hand held IR temp reader, aim at thermostat housing, top hose and radiator just after you have stopped.

No chance, mine was used on the Ark, plenty to choose from on the ebay just pick one with a tapered nose.

I have a plier type rivet tool that has a smaller head than my lazy tongs.

An easy way to gain access is to release bonnet stay and lean bonnet back against screen, support with a long stick for safety. As I remember the 19j filter is the old type that does not unscrew. A bolt on the top/middle part of housing goes through filter into lower bowl. Undo bolt.

You are asking in the Series land rover section, Suggest you move to Range Rover Threads.

Clicks can come from partially seize UJ, have had one totally seize and boy did that result in a vibration that nearly shook steering wheel out of my hands. The joint in question was well hot but when cooled I was able to drive home. Not saying it is your issue though. Click could be coming...

Pretty simple check, with volt meter connected at alternator output when engine running you should have 13 to 14v showing. However as yours is a fitted for radio military model than it would have had a 24v system. Has it been converted? This is an issue in that previous owners have often...

Clonks while moving off/slowing down are usually related to axle play both front and rear in places like the various rods and links and bush's that attach them to chassis. A classic is the A frame joint on top of the rear diff but this would not be anything to do with original issue. Clonk on...

I don't have the special tool either and have just carefully tapped around the seal to seat it' I do second @miktdish above re the seal, those brown ones fit easy enough but do not last in this situation and many have started to leak in a few thousand miles. The plastic seal protector you get...

Well at least others may benefit from your info.

Be careful not to contaminate running surface if you add sealer [ original seal had a sealer already on the outside] Locating seal in housing can be done by careful tapping around the seal if seal fitting tool not available. One chap on here made his own turned from wood, rather neat.

Voltage readings are not the be all and end all of how well an wire delivers power, if it can not supply sufficient amps things will not work. This goes for any other connection such as the spade connection on the starter. Poor connection, no starty. Easy to make up some wires to test a relay...