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@Dar ran Dar ran Bought a 27k mile TD4 and a 53k TD4 sport. Depends how it had been stored. The 27k was garaged and mint. The Sport had been stored unused and had a flat battery and headlining droop. Also seized calipers and worn out discs All other issues were a result of poor workmanship on...

The trailer indicator lamp is only fed from the flasher unit, or should be! Do you have a tow bar and a 4 pin flasher unit? If not then there is defo a false feed coming from somewhere. Do you mean relays in dash or engine bay?? Will have a 'feel' of my relays. Ooh er...... Ps. Happy Birthday...

Easier to remove link arms from subframe end. Long bolt through hub rarely moves without cutting! Then beware of flexi brake hose but suspension leg pulls out enough to disconnect driveshaft from diff.

If the engine light has lit once, there should be a code stored to read. This will direct you better than changing parts randomly.

Knock taper pin out of door stay. Remove 2 x circlips. Unplug wiring behind foot kick panel. Lift off door in fully open position. It is a bit heavy !!!

With 'no codes', are you sure the diagnostic equipment is correctly connecting to the LR protocol? There are few devices that read the LR correctly.

Happening more and more. Someone bid and won the auction. No contact, no response... Will be relisting and black strike for buyer !! Why, oh why do peeps bid when they dont want something??? Wastes everyone's time and money. Weird !

Counted them. It's getting out of hand :rolleyes: and that's just the ones on the road.

2002 and earlier had hex head bolts .. Small ring ratchet spanner is then your friend. Progress for you 😀

While it is off, check and / or replace the O ring on the coolant rail. Impossible to get off without removing pump and stat. Or rail which is harder !! A new pump comes with a new gasket which requires the old one, if original, to be cut off as the gasket was made in one piece when engine was...

Not yet but not used in anger. Never had worries about brakes on the F1. Check the calipers are free and slides are free as this reduces brake pad force applied.

Still quiet, that's the main thing !! No noticeable increase in noise and brakes work fine. Not had any 'performance braking' yet because I don't want to glaze these as well !!

Indeed. The only useful advice I have found is the cooling vanes direction is important and the photos in the post above with curved grooves breaking out of the edge require a specific direction. The ones I fitted did not have a groove that cut the edge of the disc.

Auction ends tomorrow!! Still time to buy this beauty 😍

Confused !! There were so many opinions out there and no absolute answer so I asked the manufacturer. Key thing is if the vents in-between the discs are angled. These are not but their orientation matters to pull air in. The slotted grooves, according to the manufacturer should face forward...

Thread 'Tailgate window motor components' https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tailgate-window-motor-components.335936/ Have a read at my research and findings !

The glass position when closed is indicated by a hall effect sensor in the motor assembly. When it stops moving the CCU knows glass is up. As above, recalibrate with glass in and see what happens. In have had defective sensors which can be changed or motor complete can be changed.

New vented, grooved discs fitted. Ceramic grease where needed. All brake dust cleaned out. Wheels cleaned too !! See how it goes. Was quiet on test drive. Need to bed them in for a few hundred miles.

I tried an aluminium welding stick and a gas torch. All super clean and it flowed nicely but obviously not gas tight. Soapy bubbles proved that !!

That looks like the under dash fan loom. Let me know, might be able to source what you need.