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If you don’t mind a few mile journey go to the event at stone. This is a 2 day and used to have to do a few laps in the dark & early morning.

They are the later large calipers…better than the small early type. Now that confuses me.(later than your 87) Unless some one has upgraded the callipers.. Normally these appeared from 300tdi on ward

Welcome. Have you looked at some of the ex military type 130? You can easily convert the rears for farm/ARB chip They are fun to drive but need some big parking spaces. Enjoy

Used to race with staffs & shrops. Always fun club as they do inter clubs so there are plenty of motors to watch. If not racing we would marshal in stupid places just for the action Enjoy your day…

Looks like early 110 axle. Photo of the calliper please. There are 2 sizes Early small Late large(you can upgrade to these on that axle

Even on a day of rest this thread should be checked for activity. Of course I’m ignoring any comments or advise given by the good people on the forum

What coil & dizzy you using then? Early 1s had an amplifier seperate to the dizzy. If these broke down that was the problem. On later 1s there was a small amp on the dizzy body If the above you have said with the electronics work I would do that,easier to repair in the long term

As I’m sat bored I thought I may as well ignore this thread. @MGT hope he’s not ignoring it though

Nearly the weekend… I can then carry on ignoring it.

That fuse looking thing is a connector Follow the wire may go to the dizzy?

Normally a 110 sits a bit higher on the rear to allow it been level with weight in it.

Rear shock have differnt fixings to the front so they won’t just swap over. Mine was a 110 high cap & winch. Ran standard shocks but better springs

Your fog light should only come on if you have your head lights on.(if you put high beam on the fog lights turn off) And if you are on glass fuses make sure you get a reading on both sides. These holders are prone to not working. Now if you want to quickly check the lights… Remove rear cover...

But if it’s not there they can’t fail it. They can only comment it’s now missing And putting ARB onto a lifted motor won’t help if you off road as it restricts axle movements

Here’s simples…. You know your CV… it has a notched ring around it. Detects the wheel spin The sensor is drilled into a hole in the carrier that goes to the CV. No sensor & the grease will come out, You can use the ABS carrier on standard motors just fill the hole in I’m a fountin of knowlage...

Mine is too posh as well for ABS. I only know what they are because posh friends don’t want to get there hands dirty..

That looks like an abs sensor cable in the Top. Follow that cable attached to the brake flexi to see if it is

for extra fuel,the boost pin can be played with. Look on the tube how this is done. Make sure you mark every thing incase it does not work

I think the wrong master cylinder is causing the problem.not allowing full contact of the clutch. If a slight bit of pressure is still applied it could be causing the juuddet. There must be slack in a LR pedal for correct engagement. Has your pedal got any free play?

Here’s the part numbers(off eBay) As you can see they are differnt so you will have the wrong stick.(looking at the pictures) Hope this helps