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Hi, didn't read it all properly🙄, tested + for chinky flu yesterday (1st time) & on me birthday anorl bastids. Yes the seals pop out very easy I just use a small flat bladed screwdriver,watch size. Once you lever the first bit up the run the s/driver round so as not to bend the rubber seal &...

Hi ya, I trust you're keep well, it was this stuff, grease meant for high load (wheel bearings) etc.

FAG are indeed the original bearings used in the GKN hangers (see pic). To check the the ones you have you can just prize the rubber seal out, these were 'after market' ones that lasted a few months, as you can see they had zero grease in them from new so the replacements a got I packed with...

I don't know for sure but do twisted wires make for easy identification of the speaker wiring in vehicles ? (It would be a good idea in my book if it does).

Hi Keith,it might be worth trying to find out where the break is. I don't know how much of the insulation is visable but I would use a pin to pierce the insulation to check for continuity, say every inch, you may get lucky, if not I would just run a new wire (possibly connecting the new wire to...

When I put my FL1 g/box back in I couldn't have pushed the pipe on to the buffer chamber/brake servo properly (from the boost solenoid) & it consistently fell off on the way for it's mot which resulted in lots of black smoke on acceleration (& a wooden brake pedal given the pipe it was) so any...

Hi, was that in park or neutral ? I haven't got mine any more as I donated it to my son about two weeks ago otherwise I'd take some pics of it. When I refitted the box & with the selector cable disconnected, I had it in P (which is where I left it when I removed the box) pushed the lever on the...

I have a Foxwell NT530 & programming fobs is in the menu (although I've never had to use it for fobs) . It's been invaluable for most other stuff & it covers all JLR vehicles so I use it my FL1 & D2 but as said for a dedicated FL1 tool you probably can't beat the p scan.

Have you tried moving the inhibitor switch by loosening the 2 10mm head bolts? There isn't much adjustment but it might be enough to stop the 2 lights illuminating at the same time. Also check the white insert in the XYZ (inhibitor switch) is lined up as in the pic. As said mark bits before you...

Hi, after a g/box rebuild (by a specialist due to reverse band failure) mine was 'stuck' in D1, red led showing on g/selector & D1 in the i-pack no matter where the selector lever was positioned, PRND421I also had F4 showing if I tried to turn it over. It turned out to be a faulty XYZ...

I used the Optimal ones from Autodoc on mine (had a noisy bearing but with no play). That was 3 1/2 years ago & it's been fine since.

The Meyle dampers I fitted to mine were blue although slightly darker.

Hi, FL1 or 2 ?

Blimey only took four years for that answer 🤣🤣🤣

I'm with you, is that TC definitely engaging with the oil pump ? I've not long done my FL1 auto. There are 3 stages (on the FL1) you can feel as you slide the TC in, the last being the oil pump engaging, you could then hear squishy noises when you turned the TC. As I mated the box/eng I kept...

Above posted in the wrong bit, what a plank :rolleyes:

This was mine yesterday after chasing rabbits through the undergrowth, his right eye was completely covered so he couldn't see out of it !

If the IRD has been upside-down etc oil has probably found its way past the baffles inside so will get pushed out of the breather. Have you checked the level ? If it's been overfilled the excess will also be pushed out the breather, think the IRD only hold about a litre.

Hi, they don't look too bad, certainly nothing a sandblast & re-paint wouldn't cure.

Or multimeter probes 'testing' continuety & or voltages ?