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as above. self taught and still learning. got mine on a vat free day from machine mart. just done some chassis patching and it went straight through its mot last week:)

sorry for the hijack. what do you mean by this? i`m always looking to improve my basic welding skills. steve

that sounds like a cheap and effective idea. thanks:)

i`ve been thinking of doing the opposite. electric to manual. my rear sunroof opens and closes without any input from me. fuse pulled out at the moment. another job for when its drier:)

would you use solid bar the same length as the ram when the vehicle is stationary. only because i assume the ram changes its length when cornering. or have i just made that up:D

have you had a look at the red plug on the ecu. quick and easy check. oil tracks down the harness and causes all sorts of problems.

i just had the one spanner for fan removal. gave it a smack with my copper hammer and came off easily. think you`ll find the tensioner spanner is 15mm:)

as above. haynes manual has a pic of how its routed.

i had an issue once, whereby i thought the alarm was going off in the early hours of the morning. in fact it was the horn buttons on the steering wheel playing up. they would partially stick down and go off randomly. generally 3 in the morning.:eek:

just read this thread. have you tried a new fuel filter?

bet theres no rust on your chassis:)

the outside diameter of the seal is approx 65mm. i used a 48mm socket. the sealing lip is approx 35mm. i would not use a drift on that part of the seal. the seals i have are possibly different to yours:confused: effectively. i put them in as they came out and they were not leaking. for the sake...

if its any consolation. with the help and advice on here, you can fix most problems yourself.:)

according to the haynes manual. and i quote `position the new seal with the metal part of the seal facing inwards, then drive it into position with a suitably-sized tubular spacer. note that the seal must be fitted dry.` hope that makes it clear:)

just done my suspension ball joints. so thought i would replace the driveshaft seals too. my originals and the new ones i have fitted are the opposite to what you have. i.e. metal side in and lip facing out. SO. have i fitted them the wrong way round?:confused: after looking again at your pic...

lz international rescue - has a list of hawkeye/nanocom owners

good luck with it. that will be a job for mine when i run out of good metal to weld to:D

new chassis?

i bought a d2 3 years ago. now my garage is full of new tools and a mig welder:D

just gave them a ring, helpful chaps. they even give a £25 refund for the old one. so £75 with 18 month warranty. all helps at this time of year:) thanks