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They are a real pig to get out with the inlet manifold in place, I ended up cutting a spanner in half to remove the last one.

That may be the MAF you are thinking about, MAP in located in L/H side as you look at engine in underneath inlet manifold, were not the later ones fit into hoses

Not to bad for price about £60, no real way to test, one thing to try first is to replace the turbo vent filter. I would expect to see a management light on if it was a over boost issue.

Do you get the management light on as well. Can you see the turbo actuator moving when some one blips the throttle if not the suspect boost solenoid.

Generic code readers pre 2004 will not work, It could be a few things so would be better to get it hooked up at an independent and take it from there, if I had to have a guess would look at a over boost problem, which again could be a few things from a faulty sensor, sticking vanes on the turbo...

On the end of the pump there is a taper that locates into the timing chain sprocket this sits inside the cam chain cover. There are some seals inside the pump that prevent a leak, so if the internal seals have failed it could be escaping from the taper on pump and you would not see an external...

If it is the pump, then its pump out and either a rebuild your self or refurbed pump and refit, if you do a search on the site there are a few good write ups on how to do it. I sent the last pump of to be refurbed to a local specialist think it cost £140 for the pump and took a day to get back...

The other thing I have in mind is a leak on taper on the high pressure pump which would allow fuel into sump, but normally you get evidence of a leak down the block, can not think of any other way you can get fuel into sump. The starting could be a different problem.

Hello and welcome. If its not using coolant then the only way the oil can be over the top on the dip stick, it either when you are filling it up you are not allowing for the oil to fully settle, or it has to be diesel leaking into sump, given the poor starting possibly leaking back past...

Have sent you a pm

Yes but you will need ideally remove the regulator and wedge the window shut or cut the cables but first option better, will look and see if I can find the best site for you and pm you.

As you will have probable worked out it will the cables, I know you have tried to pull it up and work the switch, If you get a good hold of window either side with some one else working switch some times it works, if not then door card off and its a bit of fiddling. I have done a couple of cable...

Do the brake lights on the trailer work when plugged in ?. If so then is the wiring for the towbar causing the issue.

Have now done 4 pump changes (not on the same motor) and would say allow 4 hours for pump out and in. You can do it with out removing any coolant pipes and can do it with starter in place. Not done the refurb of pump myself, but may try it if I have to do another.

have seen it before, normally caused by solenoid valve on high pressure pump.

Prob the pump us, get underneath and give it a tap it has been known to work. As for the pump relay look at this. Fuel Pump Relay The fuel pump relay coil (C0730) receives a feed from the energised main relay, which is also located in the engine compartment fuse box. The earth path for...

when you turn the ignition on can you hear the pump running

If it runs fine when, started with easy start but as soon as you switch off will not fire again then you have a leaking back injector, you only have one fuel pump in the o/s rear wheel arch on yours.

nice piece of kit but don't think the Scanguage2 will work in relationship to fault codes in any pre 2004 TD4s as they only went fully OB2 compliant in 2004.

Have used the kits with all the nipples attached, both 2 years ago and running fine. Think that some kits are better than others