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If the bolt is properly tight then you will pull the clutch round.

Don't see why not, you see lots of (ex?) military vehicles fitted with them.

Changed mine for standard radiator plugs with bleed screws, makes bleeding even easier. Just make sure they are taper threads not parallel.

Ahh got you. You need to be a bit more specific though the 200 crank locking tool is much simpler (as in Flossies post) The 300 tool is completely different due to the one piece pulley design. (like in the pic') I think the 300 design can be used on the 200 but not the other way round.

Plenty of plus gas for a couple of days before you do the job and they will come off easy (fingers crossed)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/449845-15PC-Land-Rover-Diesel-Engine-Timing-Tool-Kit-For-200Tdi-300Tdi-2-5TD-/290903379986?hash=item43bb315012:g:ov8AAOxy-W9STxv6

So do I, have you tried buying any recently? I needed some to do my calipers as the old tin that I've had for years had sort of dried out and gone manky, couldn't get any anywhere.

That's similar to my method, fit the seal, fit the piston, put the dust seal in the metal ring, slide ring and seal over piston and press it home using a G clamp and a piece of flat plate. Top tip #1 Use genuine LR parts. Top tip #2 Use plenty of brake fluid to lube' everything during assembly.

I can't see a problem with this, for me the exemptions are all about preserving our motoring heritage not cutting costs for cheapskate business users.

"They" can do anything they like but I agree it would be very unfair to include older vehicles in a new test that they were not required to pass when new. We might find that a new test applies to vehicles that are not all that old and had NOx standards when they were manufactured. Most older...

I had a S111 with a bonnet mounted 600 section spare tyre, that was difficult to get on and off, was a pain to lift the bonnet and compromised forward visibility. I really would not want to repeat the exercise with the 235/85/R16 and alloy on my 90. /

The guy that advised you to look for drive line problems before fixing the prop U/J was completely wrong. As a general principle you should always fix the problems you know you have before looking for other faults. A worn U/J could be dangerous and cause a lot of damage if it lets go when you...

Recovery points front and rear. Large diameter tyres are more use than wide ones and give more clearance under the diffs. Suspension lifts work if you really need the axle articulation but compromise the handling pretty much everywhere else. Rock sliders, diff guards, steering guards, HD front...

That is my understanding of the rules too, however can you buy the huge "off road" type lamps that are CE marked?

I've got 4 of them mounted at bonnet height on mine, they work very well and are street legal which many of the more extreme aftermarket lamps aren't.

I bought a tool from Padocks to change the drop arm ball joint for a few quid, makes the job dead easy.

I thought that was the point of the IVA test 'cos you don't have type approval.

stop buying Britpart spares.

Yep me too, I got them when they were on offer. Used and abused over the last few years, still looking shiny and still mechanically as good as new.

There should be virtually no movement in the swivels other than that, that allows for steering. If the bushes are moving as much as you describe then they are knackered and probably dangerous. Bushes, pins and bearings aren't that expensive and will keep you going until you can afford to do the...