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Reset inertia switch - if it had tripped at all I can't tell - still no joy, I'm afraid. ECU still prime suspect.

I'm getting the impression you need to know how to use these things to get the best out of them so not really suitable for a (hopefully) one-off use. Well, I've tried another ingenious approach. This time I've used a low frequency sinewave oscillator to sub for the crank sensor. I've fed the...

Well, if I'd have known at the outset that a new ECU would have to be reprogrammed with one of these devices, it would have put a different spin on the matter altogether. Just going outside now to perform the final double-checks on the crank sensor...

I'm happy to take your word for it! I have too many other projects on the go at present anyway. Well, that's my lot for tonight. Testing will be resumed tomorrow... :)

Urgh! Can't do that. It would be like giving in. There must be some people in the UK who could set the new one up for me by post for a reasonable fee. I'll maybe do an online search if tomorrow's more exhaustive test of the crank sensor confirms it's good. If I had more time it would be fun (my...

So... if the ECU turns out to be shot and I buy a new one, I still have to find someone with one of these devices to 'enable' the new ECU to work on my particular Landy? That's not a welcome prospect!

It's actually a very elementary assemblage of circuitry compared to some of the stuff I have to work on. But for a car, overly complicated I admit. These testers, the high end ones I mean, do they ever return a "no idea, m8" answer? Even if it's only once in a blue moon?

I fully agree. There are some little oddities that can trip up the best of us. I'm merely ticking off these items in order of probability; seems like a logical approach.

Oh, I wouldnt' use a scope for that. I've got one of these babies: http://www.peakelec.co.uk/acatalog/jz_esr70.html :D

Well you're obviously a very highly clued-up person yourself and I'm very grateful for these bones you keep throwing me. Two heads are invariably better than one in this situation! As you've probably gathered, I'm old school. It doesn't hit me as the first solution to go out and buy a...

I haven't to be honest. I'm not sure the ECU would deal with this eventuality by cutting the signals to the injectors, you see. But I'll add to my list of unlikely-but-worth-checking-nevertheless possibilities, cheers.

I think a further clarification may be in order here for the sake of completeness. I checked the DC resistance of the crank sensor (1.2k ohms) I also have now checked the sensor's output voltage (~6VAC p-p) What I have not yet checked is that this signal is ground-referenced. I now need to...

Just to clarify what I mean in my previous post: if the ground wire to the sensor is discontinuous the waveform presented to the ECU will not be ground referenced; it will float and not provide a readable value voltage. This is the wire I referred to some time ago that looks like it's been...

Oh-oh. Just read this bit: "The earth path is via pin 16 of ECM connector C0158." Damn! Have to check that tomorrow now -thanks!

Actually, on re-reading what you posted from Rave, our readings do appear to concur. They're talking about the separate measurement of negative and positive-going peaks, which will be 3V. The sensor is fine.

With the greatest respect, I'm not convinced. With a passive system like this it's really not feasible for the transducer involved to generate MORE than the expected voltage. The most likely explanation is a difference in measurement methodology between the Rave people and me. My system put an...

Greetings, gentlemen, Right, I've done a few more tests today: 1. removed the injectors wiring plug where it attaches at the front of the rocker cover. Placed a 500 ohm resistor across the plug terminals for cylinder number 1 to simulate the rough load an injector solenoid might give rise to...

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "corrupt" in this instance. The signal from the sensor is analogue, not digitally-encoded. I've made some further tests today which point towards a blown ECU. Follow-up in a few mins....

Update: rain stopped play. I had to foreshorten the battery recharging and postpone further investigation for today as it doesn't look like it's going to improve before tomorrow morning. Tomorrow PM I *may* have a little spare time, but more realistically it'll be Monday before I get to grips...

Noted, thanks. The mechanic I consulted told me about this business of oil seeping back to the ECU but the wires at that end are absolutely clean. The crank sensor and its plug & wires at the engine end, OTOH, are *VERY* oily for some reason. But I don't see how that could cause the abrupt...