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Try a number plate sale company. Out of curiosity I enquired how much it would be to buy my own number. One company replied to say it was on their data base as 'For Sale'. It wasn't me so possibly a previous owner ?

I was feeling quite smug there until you got to the clutch. 30 or 40 years ago, perhaps ? With regard to Halfords, my Wife paid £25 to have them change the battery on her late model Zafira, money well spent in my opinion.

What stood out for me here is that Halfords wanted £30 Quid to fit a Series battery ! Two spanners, job done ?

So did Halfords check the amount of charge or the capacity ? When I have used Halfords in the past, they did both.

All I can tell you is the orange connector is for the Airbag.

So 12.2 is a bit low for a static battery. Has the Hazard light illumination gone out ? If this has not gone out then the car is still awake.

First stop, have you checked the battery drain since you solved the bonnet issue ? Now, gotta be honest, I know the principle of parasitic draw. You place your multi meter across the battery post and disconnected lead and read milliamps. Pull relays one at a time and watch for reading to drop...

Do you have tow bar electrics ? My RHR indicator failed to work off the switch, despite having ground and feed. Going through the wiring I found an unused towbar loom. Once disconnected - Voila'. Don't ask me why.

Regarding the bonnet, it appears to be locking properly. I haven’t seen the bonnet warning message for several weeks now, @Shedload. One question: is it safe to insert a paperclip into the bonnet sensor switch and lock the car with the bonnet open in order to disconnect the battery? Apologies if...

I just enlarged your picture and I can see the knee bolster is attached to that panel. I think there is enough flex in the wire to lay it in footwell, but probably safer if you disconnect in case it gets pulled.

Well, it has been a good 10 years since I did one. Pop the side panel off with door open and I think there is 2 small torx screws. On the lower edge there is, I think four T30 torx screws. Accessible through the gap above the pedals just under the steering wheel there is another two screws...

The battery date is stamped on the negative post in the format described by Nodge. If the above advice does not help, you could try removing one relay at a time to rule out each circuit. It can be time consuming but effective. As an aside have you confirmed that the bonnet is actually latching...

I would assume that if you remove the Driver side lower panel the trim would come off similar to that on the glovebox door. But would it not be easier to try and refurb what's already on ?

I thought the headline read Jekyll & Hyde at first. Which I suppose it is. ;):)

The latch at the actual lock. The movement from pulling the door handle is transferred into lateral movement. The plastic clip I'm referring to joins two rods and allows movement through an angle. Though it has to be said if both sides not working, the same mistake would have to have been made...

It has been a while, but if memory serves me it is on the linkage by the latch. A small plastic piece which grips the rod, allowing the rod to slide. Hard to explain, but it basically transfers the movement, so as handle is pulled sideways the movement is forced upward. Mine was green, but some...

This could suggest a missing or insecure cable clip. Little plastic bit which holds metal rod in place ? I know the Disco 2 rear pads can be removed with door closed, any chance you can climb over and remove front from inside ?

Is this with engine running ? If yes check that alternator and wiring. If it is when you first connect battery, it sounds like you have something going to ground. With battery disconnected use a multi-meter to check for wires going to ground. Good luck

As Arctic suggests it is probably nothing to be concerned about, or you will have probably noticed. But saying that, you have what looks like a heat shield there so, possibly rubber or plastic pipes behind ? Clean the area shown and see if it spreads, check all your levels. Do the finger test...

Similar issue with rear door on D2, it was the plastic clip that holds the actuator rod.