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Err - at the risk of being flamed, it wouldn't be something simple like the earth strap would it? Load creates more return amperage? Moving engine breaks the connection? From memory they have two straps - one conventional and one from the back of LH the head - right?

Ok - you have to take it apart. Before that, looking from the top (from memory) the rotor arm goes clockwise. You should be able to lightly twist it against the AR springs - twisting back anticlockwise (retard) should be against the stop and twisting it forward clockwise (should be advance)...

When you changed the rotor arm did it come off easily? If you had to yank if off and the center spindle came up with it you may have disturbed the advance springs down in the bottom of the dizzy. This could cause the problems your describing - it happened to me

I had this exact same problem but I run my 3.9 on carbs which had been rebuilt. It took me ages but I eventually rebuilt the distributor where I found the advance retard springs had been bent so weren't working correctly. I also replaced the amplifier on the side opf the dizzy and these two...

Not far from me - might go and take a look if anyone wants some feedback

Flame trap maybe? Where do the pipes go to/from?

Most high pressure pumps are good pushers but not good suckers(!) I had to have a standard facet pump to get the fuel out of the tank and up to the other pump. Is your fuel return pipe connected?

Martin. I run the same but without the mods. What needles are in your carbs?

Don't trust any pointer or pulley marks for true TDC. The established way is to knock out the center of the spark plug and replace it with a rod that is long enough to touch the piston crown before TDC is reached. Make a mark A on the pulley. Turn the engine the other way until the piston...

Where are you based?

SimonBBC sorted me out with bob weight springs as I bent mine - it's easily done if you pull the rotor arm up and it is stuck. The whole shaft moves up and springs bend against the posts. Be careful!

Some I don't know - they are not on my wiring diag but White/Purple is usually the wire from the relay to the fuel pump I can find wires that are the other way around i.e. white with slate etc but not the colours you suggest. I've also not come across any with dots before.........

Yep they don't like running sideways whereas the SUs are fine. I've had both and believe it or not the Carb does sound better than an EFi. Don't know why but it does. EFi will give you more grunt through the rev range than carbs and better economy I think. When running well the EFi seems...

I had one is mine and it was fine. Pulled well and easy to maintain although I did have problems with the injector pump. I haven't the faintest about mpg but I don't remember it being terrible. The 200 is good conversion and when the big end went on the 19J that is what I replaced it with...

Yep correct - I can never get it to move just that little bit with those so I stick to the screwdriver. Old habits......

The're not difficult to set up I have an old Crypton Syncro check which has been in the tool box for years and still does an excellent job of balancing the carbs up but other vacuum gauges do a similar job. Next test your mixture - remove the air filter so you can see the piston inside the...

So if no3 is ok could I suggest the injector. I have a light tester that plugs into the injector wiring to make sure it working - not the injector itself but the wiring. It showed up an intermittent problem on mine that turned out to be a connector. I can't remember what it was called but...

If No 2 has a misfire then am I right in thinking that no 3 (corresponding cylinder) should also have a problem and those two receive the same spark (wasted spark system).

...and keep you warm in the process - gotta be done All the same, having two stacks out the top of each wing using the roll cage as a support with the pipes going back over the roof also appeals.. In one of the mags there is some stuff on a long nose LR. Looks like the manifolds are...

Now that is a thought. My HM cage was only meant to fend off some trees but as the bars go over the roof not just around the screen it could work. Do ya think I will need a muffler?