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Safety feature? Surely not. There are actual manual cars that have no ability to kickdown at all. There can be no hazard or danger by replicating this with an auto when in a specific mode.

You can’t use full throttle easily if this is the case. Autos don’t need full throttle to lockdown. They are all electronic on the pedal position.

Had a go in an FL2 today. Went better than I thought it would. Mostly the autobox isn't too annoying, but it has a terrible terrible trait (as so many autos do). When you move the stick to the left and activate the manual mode, it isn't manual..... is still f'ing kicks down. So so so so so so...

What Land Rover do you have? 7.50 x 16, at least a proper one, is already very narrow and tall. Next size down is 7.00 x 16, then 6.50 x 16, 6.00 x 16 But very very little choice in these sizes these days. The narrower you go, the shorter the tyre will be too. A 205 x 16 or 205/80R16 should...

Aside from the swap, RV8's often wear the cam and lifters. worth swapping these, or even going for a slightly bigger cam. The RV8 is no powerhouse, but 200hp should be fairly doable with minimal mods. For the exhausts, if you can fabricate, some long tube style headers would work wonders, as...

Is there such a thing as a rear DLR? Certainly not on a 1994 Land Rover... do you just mean the rear lights?

So, offset is more complex than that. ET is the distance from the rims centre line that the mounting flange is. So a different width rim will have a different off set. e.g. a 16 x 6.5" rim with say ET00 offset would be equal dish on both sides of the rim (3.5" in this case). But if you had a...

The answer is probably yes... but it does depend on what you are wanting to achieve and why you want such deep off set rims. Stock rims are 6.5" and +33ET offset. So a 30mm Spacer would make it like an +03ET rim. -35ET is massively more offset. In fact if it is a 7" wide rim, -35mm off set...

The TD5 does indeed have an ECU. But to be fair, most vehicles have for the best part of 40+ years. Even some 300Tdi’s and the V8’s had ECU’s way before the Td5. I really wouldn’t let this put you off. All you need is a diagnostic tool in your toolbox. All the oily bits work mostly the same...

lol, you might have to wait like everyone else... ;)

Ok it won’t strain the engine as such. My brother has a 1989 Ninety. It was a 2.5TD, now sporting a 200Tdi with some tweaks. He originally had the 1.4 in and much like you, is screamed at higher speeds. But it would do more like 70mph. He now has a 1.2 from a 200Tdi Disco but retained his...

This all depends what you want really. There are also lots of factors at play here. 1. Are you sure it really is a 1.6? Many may have been changed long ago. 2. Where does your gearbox come from? Early LT-77's have shorter gearing than latter ones or Disco LT-77's or R380s. I say this, as an...

Can you get the bits to repair the microswitches? I know someone used to offer a repair service, can't find their website now, so maybe no longer exist. I tried contacting them a number of years ago, but couldn't make head nor tail of how to go about purchasing from them.

Its a 1999 on a T plate. Log book says HSE, but it has the Thor engine (4.6) and 4 wheel traction control. I've got a letter from Land Rover explaining how it was upgraded by the Special Vehicles team to Vogue SE spec and badging. On this basis, I guess it is right at the cross over point for...

Could be the case. So last time I had an issue I was away on holiday. Parked up in the evening at the hotel and key worked fine. Next morning it didn’t work! Fortunately had the 2nd key with me. A number of weeks later when it was nice and dry out. I entered the EKA with the non working key and...

Just to clarify. Enter the EkA with the key not the Nanocom. That’s what has worked for me.

Maybe, although if you have to ask.... Exhausts are not difficult, but can end up being a PITA, depends how rusted and how easy them come apart. Be warned, if one bit is gone, the rest may follow. Depends, how much do you want to spend? Again, depends. It'll cost ya. But that might be worth...

Maybe. All I can say is, entering the EKA has worked maybe a dozen times vs 0 for any other method I've been told about.

When my p38 looses sync with the keys, they will not re-sync unless I entered the EKA with the individual key. I've tried other ways people suggest to no avail. Only issue is, unless it is dry out, it is normally impossible enter the EKA with the key. Using the Nanocom doesn't sync the key...

Front axle is probably standard and original unless there was call for it to be changed. All the front axles look mostly the same and relatively few changes over the years.