Search results

i have dropped him a line pointing out that he may be mistaken. it could be a genuine mistake

the blueprint/dimensions for any fabricator to build a chassis are in my series manual, its without doubt treated as a consumable in the book,

i have used polydoh mouldable plastic to make a few for mine, the stuff is great in any toolbox,

transit diesel with pump,starter manifold etc with milner adaptor plate for a series, bought from a local resto company who removed it to fit an original,was running well when removed,i rebuilt my original petrol so stopgap no longer needed. £275 west cornwall, help with loading available

there are not many originals left so i would leave as is and get something else to tour the continent, p.s if you want to sell the original engine i would be interested, atb, Ryn

invest in a multimeter, it could be something as simple as the replacement bulb was also faulty, it seems that your 4x4 mechanic is taking the pee,the wiring and earths are the second,not the last things to test after trying a new bulb.there aint much else to go wrong if only one winker is out

i would not like to be in the pictured if a gale blew up,

an old '60s 2.3 petrol will have plenty of 'grunt',certainly enough for its stopping power but a basic service,compression check,tappets,points+plugs etc may be a wiser course of action than a straight through pipe,

i think its sorted now, thanks for your reply,it is appreciated atb, Ryn

thanks for your post,i have just checked and it is about a mil off square between the back of the bumper edge and engaged starter handle shaft so all good, atb, Ryn

i dont know,i have never had cause to use the handle 'til yesterday ,i only noticed when used to turn the crankshaft and engage the splines

got it in today and am a bit worried,the starting handle is a bit off to the left,about 2inches looking at the vehicle from the front where it goes through the chassis hole,i noticed this when turning it to get the engine output shaft into the g/box, i would have thought it would be dead...

thanks for the advice lads,i think that i will put the starter on and leave the rest til its in,it was the fuel pump and dizzy which i didnt want to damage so best to safe and sure, atb ryn

hi,a pal has lent me his crane/hoist and as it happens i bought one of those levellers from machine mart as a thankyou to him for the lend,i have never done this before and when i took the lump out it was a struggle hence i dont want to put all the ancilleries on and get it jammed or break anything

thanks for the reply,the clutch is still on,i didnt do the mains,just down to the bigends

i have fitted new shells,pistons and rings in my old girl,when refitting the engiine using a decent hoist is it ok to fit the dizzy/fuelpump/starter etc pre fitting,i stripped them all off prior to removal as i did it by myself from a beam off the roofrack using a block and tackle so weight was...

i bought a 'new' dizzy with the same rotor arm as yours, possibly from the same seller,it had obviously been gouged and scraped by a screwdriver and was in about the same condition as the one pictured,it was replaced after SEVERAL emails and my 88 ran ok, afterwards, i also replaced the weber...

common sense and mechanicle ability,to be honest if you are lacking in either you should let a pro earn their crust,after all their kids need shoes the same as anybodys, the tools can be bought as you go along, ryn

screwfix etc sell galvy/zinc bolts etc that are absolutely fine to use if you are prepared to cut them to length.

hi, on mine i uprated the brakes using a tls 11" setup with servo,a straightforward installation using contemporary land rover parts,if you really want to fit a disc setup then to be honest you should sell the 2a and buy a later model as the next step will be power steering,aircon,airbag etc...