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Those lights have a beam pattern so will be legal (as long as they point the right way!), only thing he needs to do is get a full beam light but this doesn't need a pattern so any high output light will do...

Nope, they are driving lights, they are designed to go low down on a vehicle with a wide, long throw beam pattern, you need specific headlight units, google projector headlights or kitcar headlights, must have a UK spec beam pattern as in the picture above (left hand kick up)

They still wont have the brightness, even CREE LED, if it was that simple then the manufacturers would already be fitting them, Halogen bulbs are very bright in comparison, may not seem like it but remember the beam pattern is designed not to glare other drivers. How about these: MOTORCYCLE...

Yeah Redtop is sounding like the better option, its an engine I love, have had a few now, had a 16V GTE (one of my all time fav cars) and a Cav SRi 16V. I would go twin 45's as well but nowdays you can get a set of bike carbs for less than £200 so will prob go that way, they are a bit smaller...

I take it you mean headlights here? The LED's are a no go so throw that idea away, they simply do not have the brightness. The main issue is you need a beam pattern and its a specific pattern, you will need either a lens or a reflector in order to achieve it. I believe the bike ones will be...

That looks like a telemetry recorder, possibly it was either an experimental vehicle used to monitor G loadings, a tracker/GPS with telemetry or I could be talking ****e...

The redtop is lighter and more tunable than the Omega one plus it bolts straight in and a set of carbs will give it the 200bhp im looking for, I may then throttle body it or force induction for that 250bhp figure...

I have done a bit more digging and I think I am leaning towards giving up on the RV8 engine, I have found someone with an XE engine (redtop Vauxhall) which with a few mods will out power the V8... not got the sound but guess that will have to wait for the hot rod I build in a few years (hopefully)

American engines are out the question, too heavy in every way, I want to retain driveability so need to stay somewhere near the original weight...

Yeah was looking into that but its a heavy engine compared to the RV8, I do keep wondering about the Omega one, just need to find a doner car really, that could be the killer...

I am looking at dropping a 3.9 RV8 into a Manta B I should be picking up next week, there are a few reasons I have gone this way, the original engine is knackered, the RV8 is lighter than the original engine, I can get a complete RV8 for decent money and I have never had a V8 car so this should...

Nope, always been in Essex, mainly at my garage which is in Dovercourt. I don't MOT my self as I cant dedicate to it (you can not leave the MOT for anything and I have to run the entire business) but I have 4 MOT testers and I have to keep on top of rules and regs myself in order to stay a...

Its a fail as its an obstruction, all MOT testers should fail this, it is not an advisory but a clear cut fail. If a tester is passing then you either have a very friendly tester who is willing to do so or someone who is bending the rules as they don't want to do the repairs.

Google Memory Map, best one by far, you do have to pay for the maps but £25 gets you a fair bit (I got all of east of England, mid/south wales and sailsbury) and its just easy to use and reliable, it works on a tablet, I have it on an iPad.

I already have the tyres, they are currently on 7J's, they will fit on either 8's or 10's, that's not the issue, its more a case that 10's can pop the bead easier than 8's so some people recommend 8's and some 10's, this is the only difference, I suspect I will go 10 as it keeps my options more...

Gonna order me some new wheels up as my 33/12.5's are currently mounted on 7J rims. I am undecided whether to go for 8J's or 10J, some recommend one, others the opposite so was wondering what opinions on here would be. I kind of like the 8J's as they will keep the bead on better but the 10J's...

The cooling system will always be under pressure when hot, only when it's cold and the top hose is pressurising should you worry. Check rad is getting warm all over and check viscous is working properly as well...

I got me some nice new General Grabber MT2's (the latest 2013 ones), I like them, in fact I think they are great on road and pretty good off road, unfortunately on my *ahem* shogun the locking diff sits quite low so I want to go up to 35's, was wondering if anyone would be interested in a swap...

Yeah I'm cool for anytime, just drop us a txt, Monday is bank holiday so could pop over anytime really...

Yeah I will be about, if your down nicks I could pop in on my way home from work one evening, about 6ish, and we can run through where to go from there maybe...