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Yeah I went +2" but you don't need to do that, you will still get the same articulation but the chassis will sit lower, you wont need the bump stops either.

Most people don't like using rollers, viscous couplings are prone to failing so many just use a G meter Its better as its less accurate, means you have more chance to pass on slight imbalances e.t.c.

I had that exact setup on mine and found it to be excellent, never struggled anywhere and also maintained decent on road handling. The shocks are +2", the springs are +2", on their own you would get no extra travel so the turrets give you the extra 2" of travel over a standard setup whilst...

You will find this place is a wealth of information but it also has quite a community feel, that's the reason people get ****ed off with the same questions, we have lots of 1 post wonders who come for info then bugger off, it clogs the forums up with the same posts over and over again...

Your asking a question that has been asked many many times over, do a search and you will find your answer, the sarcasm is peoples way of saying 'stop being a lazy git and have a look yourself', google is your friend here...

Colchester has a truck wash place, google it as I don't have their number but they are very good, we send our oil leaks there to get cleaned...

I will have my crane with me but I think I am preferring just the engine, I just hope I can get to the top bolts, they can be a right pain in the arse at times and I will have no ramp and no air...

After a quick bit of advice. I need to be removing an engine from a Disco1, its a 3.9 V8. Is it easy enough to split the box/engine in situ or am I best removing as a complete lump. I wont be doing it on a ramp and am not sure if its got the same bastard bolts as the TDi at the top of the...

HiLux's are good, expensive for parts though and the wheelbase is quite long. What sort of 4x4 are you after? Is it to carry stuff or just for general use? I found the Shoguns to be the best VFM by a long way when it came to cheap 4x4's, the Hi-Lux wont have any diff or steering guards as...

Yeah they can, they run the rollers opposite ways on the same axle so the prop doesn't need to turn. It wouldn't matter anyway on a LR as unless you had the center difflock engaged the center diff would just spin away

This has been said about 20 times in this thread but people will still moan, when they pay £5 a bearing then what do they expect really!!

The shocks will be extended, this means the minimum compression will also be extended so unless you have extended bump stops and are happy losing 2" of compression then you will want standard shocks fitting.

Not for the handbrake though ;) But yeah, decent rollers will work with 4x4's...

watch out with aftermarket wheels, the boss means your an arms length from the indicators, pain in the arse as you cant reach them without taking your hands of the wheel. I'm going to assume you have a Defender, look at later TD5 ones, I believe there are choices on the amount of splines...

Its nothing to do with the MOT, as long as the brakes work then its a pass, even if the discs look ####ed if they pull the readings its an advisory at worst!

Transfer box, Disco is a better ratio than defender...

Ah... your on AT's, I was thinking you had 33" MT's or something, yeah AT's will need balancing, 200G is quiet a lot though (although I have done worse), maybe you have got a slight buckle on one of the wheels...

:5bspam::5bspam::5bspam: :nospamhere: :rolleyes::D;)

I sympathise with the fitters here, LR wheels are not your everyday wheels and larger off road tyres are a pain in the arse to mount and balance. Most machines simply won't accept the hub size, if they do then they don't always go on true due to the size of the wheel/tyre... Anyway...

Its is still legible so will pass on that however I cant see in the picture if its still reflective, it looks like it is so it should pass no problem...