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Probably a rust converter ?

PdeG - try a bit of home brew filter paper between the clutch plates - there's probably all sorts of sh*te in there... and if that doesn't work, take the clutch plate off and see if you have a shim in there. Your clutch is magnetising ok, by the sounds of it.

Bin the foam... Harbours moisture ...

and/ or take a flat bladed screwdriver to the top of the crescent inside the passenger side bonnet catch, remove the crud, and grease it up - make sure the catch opens and closes freely when you move it back and forth with the screwdriver.

Scotia - have a read of this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/898-calibrated-speedos?page=1#pid27063 - you can recalibrate the speedo by adjusting two pots on the instrument cluster - both slope and offset, so you may find the right combo. My speedo (unadjusted) is pretty consistently 5mph below...

Shane, I have one, I pm'd you

Someone would probably pay a good price for wammers' nanocom, cos no-one else has ever been able to replicate that and the manufacturers say it cant be done. Anyway, EKA is not so hard to get hold of if you own the car legally, so it's a pointless discussion. I'm sure it wd give Wammers a good...

Nano wd work if you know the eka

You'll be pleased to know though that your prediction was correct though and my buzz has returned :o( back to the drawing board....

When adjusting a variable resistor that's meant to be adjusted is described as a bodge, god help us all - certainly beats what would no doubt be a fruitless exercise in pulling panels and checking connections. Footwell connector is already removed and soldered up anyway. It sounds like you...

Tnx - i see what you mean about Dunsfold - that's a shame

Do you have an after market stereo, or original? I battled with a buzz on one door, and replaced the door amp - it went away. It returned a couple of years later and I have now increased the resistance between the output of my after-market stereo and the door amp (my incartec harness uses...

If you want to de-pin it then in each channel you need to use either a safety pin, or narrow flat bladed jewellers screw driver to move a plastic locking tooth away from the pin and withdraw the wire/pin backwards (after you've undone the lock on the wire side of the connector. It's very...

zebra strip ok? if you are missing power to the EAS switch - are all your interior lights out? C244 - middle connector at the back of the HEVAC carries the 12v power feeds check c244- 2 (ignition 2) and c244-6 (interior lights feed), also ignition I (C244-1)

Before you go pulling stuff apart, make sure to drive the car over 20 for about 15 mins. The hevac doesnt take the reading until it knows you are properly under way, until then it'll show -40

you needn't go external at the top - mine is external front and side, but the hoop to the rear of the driver/ passenger is internal - also SD, but factory fitted

Hi guys Does anyone have any recommendations for Defender 90 chassis swaps not too far from SW London/ Twickenham? Dunsfold is in reach, but I guess that might be an expensive option - has anyone used them ? Dorset/ Norfolk are also near family so can be alternative options. TIA, Rob

If your mum's involved you must be running out of options

I looked into it a few years agi, got as far as going to a 3D specialist, but the scan and set up was going to cost 60/70 pounds plus mats. I figure the material is a kind of polythene, like a walls ice cream tub

Just let the air out of the rear tyres, and keep an air compressor at home - or the CTI system, as mentioned. Most defenders sit high at the back - you don't need the front on air anyway - could probably work fine on rear air bags only IMHO