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but the card ive got is real sturdy and will look right good once ive glued in position, he wont ever know :) paper may look good but it will sag when it gets wet :)

yea he can trust me :) i just bought a sheet of grey card board and a pot of evostick glue. when he aint looking im gonna do a real good blue peter job but with out the sticky backed plastic ;) when its painted and the carpet is back in he wont ever know the floor bearers are card and the...

i was going to say spider unit but the td5 shot that idea down in flames :)

if the starter is making that noise i would go for low battery power to start with and a knackerd starter solinoid after :)

the shut off solinoid has one wire to it and is on the back of the pump. if you do a search on here for fuel shut off solinoid im sure it has been coverd along with pictures :)

this is the spider unit and its location.

the other side is onelaugh ;) no, they get a fault inside the instrument cluster thats dead easy to rectify.

if you strip out the rear seats, the two boot seats and panels so ive got a clear run at it then £150 will get it sorted out for you. the cross bearers and side repair bits i have fabricated at a local steel place, they cost about £20 for the lot. when will you want it doing ? i reckon a day...

give me some idea of what ya would be happy to pay and ill see what i can do. im not out to rip any one off :)

how much do ya wanna pay ? are you stripping the interior carpets/panels out ? are you suppling the floor panel ? how far do you want to go with the finnishing paint work ? the side bits and cross members are easy enough to sort out :)

go to the other side and take a look at my thread titled: disco intermittent / fluctuating rev counter. if every thing else fails try that :)

i would say the fuel shut off solinoid is on its way out ? they shouldnt buzz.

the bonnet catches can be adjusted. maybe thats all it needs ? or the locking catch is worn ? in which case it will need replacing :)

yes, remove the drive flange, remove the bearing retaining nut and remove the hub. should take about 30 mins each side. but make sure you dont get any rust flakes or grit in the grease/oil inside the hub.

i had the same problem a few months ago, driving along and it just cut out, left it a few mns and it restarted perfectly, gradually it got worse untill it was cutting out every few miles so i repaired the spider unit. it took all of an hour and a half from start to finnish including soldering...

did you bleed both sides front and rear ?

just buy it and break it, dont even bother telling the DVLA.

last year while driving to notts down the M1 i saw the brand new design for the landrover concept driving south. according to the news articles about this concept it isnt decided on a production date but as i saw it was being tested on the roads now. had it not have had bits of foam and tape...

i fitted a sony cd player and sony xplode speakers in my discovery and cheap speakers in the rear door and the sound is brilliant. im especially impressed with the rear door speakers cos they even had the threaded hole in the back of the speaker to bolt the land rover amp to :)

doin the boot floor replacment properly is probably quicker than a load of seam welded patches all over the place and it looks good to even if the carpet hides it. drilling out the spot welds then spotting the new boot floor back in is a doddle to do. they dont need to be seam welded.