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Might be able to use a bore camera with the rear windows down to see if the multiplug has simply been pulled off the door lock ? ie to avoid removing the door cards and water shedder

I got mine off ebay - was an easy fix (surprisingly easy)...

Castrated P38s are not my forte, but i suppose you may need one of these https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/coil-bypass-loom-da4136eas-p-17929.html. Whoever fitted coils may not have properly bypassed the EAS

On the tailgate seal.. Take a look at the top too...one of mine was letting in water at the top edge, which was running round the seal and entering lower...I rtv'd the whole top edge. Stopped the problem. If you get condensation in the spare wheel bay you can get a silica gel bag and put it in...

Behind the c pillars, theres a tube coming down from the roof space and connecting with a rubber port on the top of the wheel arch...the old rubber shrinks/ pipe shortens ..so check that yours are ok...its easy to add a couple inches more pipe to be sure that they drain without leaking...and...

Is the remaining stud completely fragged? Maybe just leave it in, or use a proper stud extractor (with impact gun)... You cd also put two nuts on it and lock them together, and try and undo the stud using the top nut. Lastly, its cold this time of year, but if you run the engine it will heat...

contact cleaner/ grease may work...the buckles are sealed in a plastic casing, so you will have to break the casing to get in. I repair most things, but given this is a safety item and when I did crack it open it did not look an obvious fix then I bought one off a breaker. RHF are very rare ...

Hi Monkey...personally I just use the rad drain....drain the rad, fill with water, run the engine to temp, drain the rad again...... Fill the system with OAT to half the volume quoted for a full refill (eg 11L/ 2 for a V8)... top up with water

LOL... the pink comes out, for sure

For the squeak, spray grease - you just need to hit the right spot... was years ago when i did mine - think it was where the ends of the return spring anchored to the pedal and bulkhead. You neednt strip the panels, but you do need to lie looking upwards... tho removing the abs panel with the...

Feck...pls check the alternator charging voltage too. Cd be that the alternator is bad, or just needs an uprated Voltage Regulator (just 20 quid...) and grab youself a little voltage reader thingy off ebay to go in the cigar lighter socket

You cd also go to new.lrcat.ru the site shd tell you which part nos replace/ supercede which...

Yes, it does sound solvable...the seat on mine blew the fuse when I first got it. Iirc correctly it turned out to be a short on the lumbar support pump. Temp solution was to depin the relevant wire from the connector under the seat, until I cd be bothered to pull the seat apart for a permanent fix.

Not a good idea to whack what is connected to your water pump...rubber strap wrench will work fine to hold the pulley for removal, and agree no need to go crazy tight when remounting

Good point

the a/c request is active low, and grant too. the HEVAC needs to see the request conditions fulfilled and grant low to engage the clutch (or relay to the clutch, depending on MY). i had problems with my ECM not providing the grant signal in response to the request, so i have earthed the grant...

i would try and recalibrate the flaps using the nano function. shd not be reading 232pc...

ALways unplug at the OBD, and keep the cable connected to nano (or be sure to connect that first before use). If the cable is live ie plugged to the OBD it can short out to the nano and you will need to replace F33. i never leave it permanently connected - i think it stops/delays the becm from...

More likely stress fractures in the 24 yo fan blades, plus the viscous was only 10k miles old