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Right, colder than you think, and hotter than you think ...dumb question, are your fans working properly? Is hevac reading cabin temp corectly/ is there a snowflake displayed?

I'd say someone has screwed with your wiring...radio out to see what's going on...Maybe was depinning/ switching wires around

That is the retaining clip on either the left or the right dasboard vent. Not worth pulling things to bits for, but next time you have the binnacle off (or glove box) you can fix it. Mounts on a couple of plastic lugs...they like to break

800 is scrap value, a decent one shd be worth 5+ to the right buyer, butt emphasis on decent

Will.you convert the mill wheel to solar?

At low speed there is less ram air, and greater reliance on the fan/rad. I had a blocked rad, which caused low speed overheats, dumped coolant periodically too. As soon as I changed the rad, problem solved, but not before i'd needlessly replaced the t stat and viscous fan

I would change the coolant and back flush the rad. Defo no k seal. Chances are not high, but cd just be the coolant aystem misbehaving....quicker than doing the HG first off, and you can reuse the new coolant if it turns out to be the HG. Did the overheat happen at low speed?

Yes, try the connector at the rear of the engine to the gearbox.

Definitely does that on both the ones i've had... as soon as I push one side higher or lower temp (though I think more than 2 degrees, more like 5) the other blend motor gets dragged in the same direction. I can watch the flaps do that all day with the nano, so it's presumably programmed behaviour

Not sure if self levelling when parked ranks as the P38s most useless feature

or just pull fuse 44...if we really want the easiest way - but it's just shades of grey, at the end of the day

Well fine, if the relay is completely removed... I had assumed we were talking about removing the EAS relay and replacing it with a yellow one...but clearly I was mis-interpreting

on that theme... energise the clutch with a 9V battery, engine off...can you manually move the clutch at all (ie could the clutch be slipping) maybe just check the clutch gap with a feeler gauge, for good measure

Do you have the regassing slip - did they put PAG oil in as part of the refill? Hopefully yes, but otherwise the compressor is running dry. Where did your AC lose pressure from originally?

ETM...

Up to you...i had an EAS levelling error that was not controlled/ eliminated by removing the relay and was not caused by any air leak. The only way to be sure that the car cannot do anything electrical overnight is to disconnect the battery... it really is not that much of a faff for the sake...

True, but at least that way you can be 100pc sure that the whole of the EAS is electronically isolated (and anything else that might wake the car).

or just disconnect the battery

+1 nfu, plus if the RR needs fixing nfu will actually repair it, not try and fob you off with cash

Switchpack? If you can get a nano on it you can (try and) command the window and mirrors remotely, and if that works then most likely switchpack