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But that's on a P38 discomalc - the op has a Classic which is much, much simpler and only needs an adapter lead for the head unit. Good to know it can be done in a P38 though but it sounds a major undertaking.

I thinks it's 17 gal.

It sounds like your BeCM is being woken up by the remote fob receiver due to it picking up spurious radio signals. Quick fix for that is to disconnect the blue signal wire to it from the antenna. The antenna is embedded in the offside rear window and the receiver itself is just below it under...

Hello and wlecome:welcome2: Your headlights are as 1992LSE says - sealed beams. You replace the whole glass assembly. They can be changed for bulb types. Take a look at various suppliers and maybe your local car shop. Headlining - Mine's exactly the same. I just removed the sunroof lining...

Same experience here with a Volve 740 estate - 245,000 miles when I sold it. Original engine and box. In fact, most of the damn car was original apart from the usual consumables. A later C70 though wasn't anywhere near being as well built. Everything down to a price now and it shows.

They were designed originally I believe as stationary engines for generators, pumps etc. I'm told in that capacity, they were extremely good. They just weren't designed for cars. Jeep also used them in their Cherokees up to about 1999/2000 so that may be a decent source. What the differences...

See thread today - Tyres P38 etc

If it's not starting as it should and you then pull the fuel pump relay and jumper it so the pumps's running all the time, If it then starts OK, it confirms the mechanics diagnosis of not enough fuel pressure possibly due to it draining back into the tank. If it doesn't start, you know it's not...

It's late. I didn't 'see' the 'Classic EFI 3.9.....:rolleyes: The only other immediate thing that comes to mind is cleaning the MAF using carb cleaner. Not something I've ever done on mine so I can't tell you how to do it (other than squirting the stuff in there) but previous posts on here...

Sounds more like a flat spot due to sucking too much air in when you floor it. Is it a carb or injection?

A bit fiddly to get to as they're at the back of the engine on the left hand side (nearside). They're all mounted together as one assembly. You can't buy individual ones but if you really wanted to see which one was breaking down, pull the plug leads off one by one with an old plug on the end...

Did you try jumpering the fuel pump relay as I suggested earlier?

Ohh lucky you in the luverly warm North Sea. Here I am freezing my nuts off in 25 - 30 degs sunshine with the tan topping up nicely.:D:D Back to reality next trip though with drydock in bloody Newcastle for 6 to 8 weeks:(:( Can't win em all. Had 12 months out here so not complaining. And the...

Not wishing to state the obvious but I'd take it back to where you had it serviced, point out all the oil and ask them to rectify it. It sounds like they've re-used the sump plug washer or something equally silly and it's leaking out when the oil gets hot.

I did mine some years ago on the DSE. I did both seats in a day so it can't have been that bad. Fiddly with the hog rings but as someone else said on here, a couple of pairs of pliers did the trick, Or just use strong cable ties. I do remember the original heating elements being bonded to the...

F26 also feeds the oxygen sensors and the Ignition coils. The fact that your engine does start would say your ECU is OK. The biggest suspect has to be the ign coil pack. This would give the symptoms you're getting of only running on 3 or 4 if a couple of the coils were breaking down (There are 4...

I don't think there's an easy way of measuring the fuel pressure. You can't take an injector out without taking the whole fuel rail off first. The official way is to measure it at the inlet to the 9th (cold start) injector which comes off the back of the pressure regulator. I never managed it on...

You'll have to be more specific in which fuse keeps blowing.

Partly true. The pump has an overheat switch which signals the EAS ECU that the pump is getting too hot which then switches the relay off until the pump cools down. It doesn't actually measure the current being drawn. Otherwise, I'd agree with you the pump sounds to be shot and not just the...

Hhmmm. I think I'd be wary at that price, especially as it's only a 4.0 HSE rather than a 4.6 Vogue. You could end up spending as much altogther as it would cost to buy one that didn't need the work. Don't rush in!