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all the decent ones round here are closed now. i used to drive them almost every day on the way or way back from work in my series. brilliant fun. still do them occasionally on the bike but theyre getting a bit tight for a landy now.

i used to trial with the mid west off road club. bunch of hillbillies with cages made of scaffolding and trucks held together with angle iron. always a great trial and an even better laugh! No rules meant it was cheap and you could modify it any way you want. bit like awdc i suppose. I have...

i suppose it must be as i've done endless alrc ccv trials, time trials and comp safafris at all the big events! and comps with the awdc. it still seems bendier than other cages out there!

it is 50mm seamed but honestly dont think its 4mm. whatever it is its probably the cheapest! next one will be cds definately.

I waas gonna say that sucks cos you aint got a heater but then i realised where you are! doh

you should always use diff lock and engage a gear when you lift the rear end and the handbrake becomes effectiveless without it!

my whitbread cage is half the wall thickness and half the weight of others which is why it isnt as strong. I bought some cds to modify it with and it was a lot stronger so i dont know what he uses.

PP make better cages. whitbreads are made of cheese compared to others. i have one and it got very bent very easily. have replaced the side rails several times. someone in my club has a pp one and it is absolutely solid, never had to touch it. and he drives hard too! The next cage i get which...

yeah the yellow one is a lot of money, same price as the red 200tdi. the white one though looks very good indeed. theres something about unmolested early 90 and 110's that i love. we got one where i teach off road and its lovely. the n/a engine is complete ****e but i love it its completely...

is it one of the ones on the website by any chance? the white one or the yellow truck cab?

i wouldnt expect a warranty on any vehicle 24 years old, especially made by Land Rover! must be a good one then!

the old n/a is just slow in general. with or without a large load! main issue with this age is going to be rusty chassis especially the arse end. crossmember etc. bulkhead outriggers are another favourite. and definately the bulkhead and its footwells. oh and door bottoms! check condition of...

If the axle is from a series then it will the same ratio. if it is from a 110 then you will have to swap the front diff for a range/disco/90 diff. then with the overdrive you will have some seriously tall gearing, perhaps too much and it will make low box higher aswell, not always good.

when i stripped an old axle i had to weld a bar onto an old spanner to get them undone, they were super tight. its diffo 14mm cos i still have it just in case!

there is an oil feed pipe from the block to the head at the back. check the banjo bolts are not leaking or the braised joints are not cracked.

throttle cable for an efi range rover/disco will do the job. SBB104300 or NTC6723 will do the job.

mine is a topmig perhaps they used different parts to the smaller migmate ones. I'm sure it will die one day but for now its still good.

have had an sip 195 for 6 years which has had a very hard life indeed. still is perfect to the day, welds perfectly. Done everything from thin bodywork to roll cages and winch bumpers. Nice long lead with a small torch, perfect for tight spots! cant vouch for some of the smaller cheaper ones...

well this happened to me with my bodged up prima in my old series about 6 years ago. I was out playing in the woods and went up a bank, oil went to the back of the sump and it just sucked it straight up! luckily i managed to stall it and luckily the clutch was fine. i couldnt see around me...

every main or big end i have replaced has the size stamped on them. if they are oversize they will say so.eg .10 or .20 etc I even was given to fit some cheap far east crap ones that i couldnt even pronounce and they said .10 on them!