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also had found one of these bump stops slightly thorn. could this be the sourse of noise?

will check that too. also could it be the rubber between the spring and the topmount? as I have used the old ones. lookd fine. and where can I buy these from as I dn't know the propper name for those.

will be taking it for VRT (MOT equivalent) and hopefully he may get some indication or locate noise. although it should pass without any probs

FRONT END CLUNK CHALLENGE. And we should put a prize for that person.

And this is after new shocks. Also removed one drop link so there will be no tention on ARB and took it for a drive and knock was still there. so think that rules out ARB and Droplinks.

have recently changed the front shocks and have a clunk noise/knock comming from front which I don't think was present before. -ARB droplinks are new (couple of months old) -One track rod end was replaced (few months old and other doesn't have any movement.) and both not touching anything but...

thanks @Nodge68 will be trying a scrap yard or fixing mine somehow.

431.56 € WOW. will try to find another way then.

Freelander 2000 TD4. Today while working under the car I found out I had a slight leak from the fuel line running along the underside of the car (passenger side) its from near the connector. not sure if from the connector itself (need to investigate further on that one) From what I understand...

Sry read wrong about the 3d printed part

@xpuser8334 please update with any reaults. Maybe do a batch if any good and sell them. Also do you have the large rubber bushes from the upper and lower engin tiebar? Have been looking for them but can't find any. Have replaced them to polybushes but vibration is horrible so want to get back...

Does look like a pretty basic interface. As in, from what I can understand from the pinouts. its like a separate system that doesn't depend on other modules. Signal input from wheel sensors and output to pump in simple words. Am I right?

@Nodge68 any links with info? Please

Back to square one. Contacted rimmer bros and looks like OE ones are no longer available. So out of ideas.

Thanks. Yes that's what I'm thinking. Will use a drill bit and if necessary put a bit of welding on it to keep it in place if not tight enough. Will post the results. Or try making a step by step process with pics.

oh I'm looking into solving same problem. question is. Is it supposed to be round or should it have a flat side from new?

Nice write up. And great tip about the rear arms mod. Did the 50mm lift a few months back and was the best mod on the FL. Clearance is a lot better and still handles great. Only difference from yours is I installed 2 chamber bolts at the front to adjust the chamber after the lift as it was...

ok finally tested on gravel and although it took a few tries and flooring it a few times in tight turns. I finally got the TC light to come on although briefly. Can say it handles excellent on gravel never out of control. so at least that's setteled. next are some good AT tyres and maybe as...

I have previoussly been on axle twisters in my current setup and went over after getting momentary stuck until turning the wheel left and right and keeping the revs up. managed to do so but again without the TC Kicking in at any time. managed because the car was unbalanced and was going up and...

I did mine a while ago. On axle stands and it was difficult to put it back in esp re alligning the splines to the gearbox side with the heavy unit on my chest. Not getting it out though. If there is enough space to slide the inner shaft out of the wheel arch side I think it will be much easier...